Raw Meat Instead Of Dog Food

Dogs were born and bred to eat raw meat. The very first dogs were capable predators, and still are today. If your dog was suddenly thrown out into the wild, his hunting and predatory instinct would take over and he would kill his prey and eat their raw meat. That is how dogs were meant to be.

Now most dogs are domesticated. Owners have all but forgotten that their dog or puppy dietary needs do not consist of table scraps and/or canned dog food but of old fashioned raw meat.

Raw meat dog food provides dogs with the essentials they need to maintain optimum health. If your dog consistently ate raw meat dog food rather than over manufactured or cooked food, his digestive and immune system health would increase dramatically. You would also notice such long term changes as better quality coat and skin, clearer eyes, cleaner and fresher smelling teeth, gums and breath, increased energy and vitality and an overall happier disposition.

What a raw-food dog’s diet should consist of. All meat should, obviously, be uncooked, and may include: Eggs (with shell), beef, buffalo, venison, elk, chicken, turkey, emu, ostrich, rabbit, and fish. Small animals, like rabbits and fish, may be fed whole – dogs love it this way. At least 60-80% of your dog’s raw food diet should consist of raw meat.

Vegetables can be combined with meat, and can account for about 20-40% of your dog’s diet. You can include: Broccoli, squash, Romaine lettuce, carrots, cabbage, celery, and asparagus. Watch for any bloating or gas problems that your dog may experience. If he’s looking distended and feels sluggish, start by eliminating the broccoli (that’s usually the culprit). If that doesn’t work start be leaving out others until you find the one/ones that are affecting your dog.

To see this natural dog food recipe and other natrual dog food recipes, visit the Dog Obedience Training Review Blog.

Technorati Tags: raw meat, dog food, dogs, diet, dietary needs, homemade dog food, dog food recipes, natural dog food, natural dog food recipes puppies, The Puppy Blog, Teri Champigny

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To some, a dog may just seem the same as the other one, they eat, they play, they sleep, and they leave a mess, could it get more complicated than that. Well, basically they do have the same needs, but there are still some distinct differences in every breed which can require some special attention. Sure they all need to exercise, but there are some differences as well. So if you own a French Bulldog, or is planning to own one, then you need to know what this differences are to ensure that you will have a happy French Bulldog and a healthy one at that.

In this article, there is a vital list of the basic things that any French Bulldog owner should know. This list will not only help you become a responsible owner, but also help those that are thinking about buying a French Bulldog to decide whether they are ready to own one today. Here is the list of those instructions in no particular order:

Cool area in their home or in their garden – French Bulldogs find heat as their waterloo. Because of their oddly shaped head, French Bulldogs find it difficult to dispel heat. They also have trouble breathing when it’s too warm and when they are tired. Make sure that if you live in an area with a warm climate, an air-conditioned room should be available for them. Also, your garden should have areas where shades are available where they can lunge around in not too warm days. Providing your pet with a good shelter makes him feel important and valued.

Have water accessible – Water will help them dispel heat. French Bulldogs tend to overheat so they need to rehydrate often. Even with just a small time spent exercising, they will soon become thirsty and panting, so have a water bowl ready inside and outside your home.

Exercise your French Bulldog – Unlike other dogs though, French Bulldogs cannot be kept active for a prolonged period of time. They tire easily and needs short breaks from time to time. Walking and exercising is necessary for strength development of the dog, so dog owners usually do it twice a day. This also helps them to dispel waste outside your home. Plus, prevent your French Bulldog from overheating when walking him by doing your exercises at dawn and at night time where the sun can’t bet down hard on your pet.

Well balanced diet – Quality dog food should be the norm. A healthy diet will help keep your dog strong to ward off any health conditions. It will also keep your dog looking good with its coat shiny and vibrant.

Respect your dog – treat it humanely and as part of the family. Provide it with the attention it needs and spend quality time with it. French Bulldogs in particular need more human attention than other dogs. Try to spend also on dog products like chew toys and treats. A good collar will not only keep it nearby with a leash, but also help it find its way home if it gets lost.

And finally, keep some time and money for vet visits. Your vet is your best friend and ally in keeping your French Bulldog healthy and happy.

Technorati Tags: French Bulldog, dogs, vital needs, exercise, breathing, overheating, diet, Teri Champigny

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When a dog is incontinent (this often happens in paralysis) several newspapers arranged under his hindquarters will help to keep the bed dry. Cotton wool arranged between the thighs and under the tail is a great help and a gentle sponging with very weak Dettol and warm water two or three times a day is advisable. Talcum powder used regularly helps to prevent soreness on the abdomen, and zinc ointment should be used for the same purpose in cases of diarrhoea. The dog must not be made wet but he must be kept clean. Long-haired dogs should have the hair cut off round the tail and hindquarters or the tail can be enclosed in a muslin bag which can be burnt when soiled.

Any treatment, simple or complicated, must be carried out with the unhurried speed which characterises the good nurse. To ensure this, have everything ready beforehand. For example, for cleaning the animal you will need cotton wool, lint (for washing), a basin with Dettol and warm water at the correct temperature, a receiver for soiled material, talcum powder, zinc ointment, scissors (for long-haired dogs) and a thick towel to arrange under the hindquarters to keep the bed dry. These articles should be placed on a tray, the home equivalent of the hospital dressing trolley! The window should be shut if any process is likely to chill the patient, and a covered hot water-bottle afterwards is very comforting in cold weather.

Handle the dog gently but firmly, supporting him if necessary for feeding and drinking, and be especially gentle in your care of the paralysed patient. Remember that the patient unable to protect himself is easily bruised and injured just in the same way as a dog under anaesthesia. These animals are particularly subject to bed-sores and must be turned every two hours or so, and their beds kept smooth and soft.

It is important in nursing a sick dog to do what is necessary and no more. In other words, leave the animal to sleep between food and treatment; undisturbed quiet is an essential part of recovery. Of course this does not mean neglect, such as leaving a dog for hours and hours in a wet bed with a cold bottle and a raging thirst. But there is always a great temptation to be over-attentive to the patient, especially if dearly loved, and self-control must be exercised by the nurse. Try to keep calm and cheerful, even if feeling the reverse, as dogs are very sensitive to the tone of voice.

Diet, taking temperatures, post-operative care, and so on, will be found under specific headings.

The pulse is best felt in the femoral artery which crosses the thigh. The normal rate is between seventy and ninety beats per minute, smaller dogs having a faster rate than the bigger breeds.

After feeding, the mouth should be swabbed out with a weak solution of permanganate of potash and water, and this can be repeated every two or three hours during the day if the dog is feverish and thirsty.

Sponging the face and head is very refreshing in hot weather and helps to reduce a high temperature. Try to put yourself in the dog’s place and foresee and prevent discomfort. To take a tiny example—bright sun shining into the dog’s eyes. Understanding, imagination and common sense are all qualities valuable in the canine nurse. Quiet is essential with nerve cases and, indeed, in any serious illness; if you have ever been ill yourself you will remember how irritating you found the banging door, the clattering footsteps and the loud voice.

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Using Inhalations

These can be exceedingly unpopular with canine patients but are nevertheless prescribed quite frequently for catarrhal infections, such as are found in distemper.

A narrow vessel (for example, a jug or stone jar) is well warmed in the oven, rinsed out with boiling water and refilled with boiling water plus the medicament chosen. This is usually Friar’s Balsam or eucalyptus. Friar’s Balsam may stain the vessel so eucalyptus (one teaspoonful to the pint) is preferable. Hold the dog’s head over the steam so that he inhales it. The animal must be held firmly throughout (usually for periods of 3-5 minutes, two, three or four times a day) in case he scalds himself.

Another excellent method of treatment by inhalation is the bronchitis kettle, familiar to most mothers.

This resembles an ordinary kettle but the spout is about two feet long. The kettle should be kept boiling on a small stove or spirit-lamp and the spout directed to the dog’s bed. A tea-chest placed on its side with wire over the front so that the dog cannot get out makes a splendid “steam tent” for a small patient. Travelling boxes can be adapted for this purpose. The kettle should be placed near the box with the spout directed at the opening, and a rug can be thrown over part of the front in order to concentrate the vapour. One or two teaspoonfuls of Friar’s Balsam can be added to the water in the kettle. This treatment should be carried out for about 10 minutes at a time, and repeated 2 or 3 times daily.

Nasal drops are sometimes prescribed. Most of these act by contracting the blood vessels in the lining of the nose, thereby reducing the inflammation and congestion. The dog’s head should be tilted well back and a medicine dropper, procurable from any chemist, is often preferable to the one supplied with the drops, which is sometimes rather large for easy insertion into a dog’s small nostrils.

Diets For Invailid Dogs

A diet for a sick or convalescent dog should be light, palatable and nourishing. Broadly speaking, there is no necessity to feed dogs at night as uninterrupted sleep will be of far more benefit.

It would obviously be a mistake, however, for the stomach to be overloaded with one or two large meals with which the digestive organs are unable to deal, so several small meals should be given. Milk, although very nourishing and a great stand-by, is not always suitable by itself and may have to be modified with Benger’s. Sometimes milk food made from one of the powdered full-cream infant foods is relished when ordinary milk fails to appeal. Baked custards (made with eggs) are usually much appreciated. Unless contraindicated, glucose can be added to all milky dishes. As it requires no digestion before assimilation it is a very valuable food. Far ex, milk puddings, crushed cornflakes and milk and Brand’s Essence are all useful items in invalid diet. Brand’s Essence is of particular value in cases of weakness, debility and prostration.

When diarrhoea is present give white fish boiled in milk, raw chopped meat in very small quantities and boiled rabbit can be given in convalescence. Eggs are more easily digested when given beaten up with milk, lightly boiled, or in custards. Barley water is best in kidney cases. Some of the lighter breakfast foods—cornflakes, rice crisps, and so on— bridge the gap between very light invalid food and more solid diet. The change from one to the other should always be gradual, particularly where there has been diarrhoea and vomiting.

Sometimes strong black coffee or brandy mixed with milk is advised when prostration or collapse is present. Do not be tempted to give too much at one time— a very sick dog should have only a few teaspoonfuls every two or three hours. Keep all spoons and dishes very clean and never leave food in the sick-room.

Avoid rich, indigestible foods such as herrings, sardines, and whale meat. Obviously dog biscuit should not be given. Rusks or lightly baked brown bread make a good substitute as convalescence progresses.

Dietary supplements containing vitamins are particularly important to the convalescent animal. The most necessary vitamins at this time are A, B complex and D. A comprehensive supplement such as Vivomin (Crookes) is the best way of supplying these essential factors. Fresh raw or lightly cooked liver is a rich source of the vitamin B complex. If liver is used be sure that it is absolutely fresh, and if such a supply is unobtainable one of the very good liver extracts on the market may be used instead. Do not use dried liver or liver meal.

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