Canine Arthritis

Canine arthritis, it’s not only humans that can be affected by arthritis, but dogs can develop many forms of arthritis too. These forms are classified according to the provocative cause and manner of the condition. Arthritis literally means inflammation of the joints. Canine arthritis can be caused by trauma, aging, ruptured ligaments or tendons, dysplasia or generative joint disease and lack of activity. Several forms of canine arthritis are:

Osteoarthritis

Is the most common form of canine arthritis, and is also known as degenerative joint disease. This for of arthritis is a slowly progressive disease involving the breakdown of the articular cartilage in a joint. This cartilage is a specialized tissue that covers surface of the bones that contact each other, providing lubrication and shock-absorption for the joint, allowing frictionless, pain-free movement. If this cartilage is damaged, osteoarthritis is set off. Permanent damage, pain and inflammation are results of the body’s inability to repair the injured cartilage.

Infectious Arthritis

This form of arthritis results from growth of microorganisms in a joint, or the spread of an infection to a joint in a different place in the body, such as Lyme disease, which is a tick-transmitted microorganism that can affect one or several joints.

Rheumatoid Arthritis

This is an uncommon canine arthritis and generally affects middle-aged to older small-breed dogs.

Systematic Lupus Erythematosus (SLE)

Is a form of arthritis that is a polysystemic disease and often affects the joints. The disease results in the body’s immune system attacking components of the body’s own cells, that results in damage to many organs including the joints, kidneys, lungs and skin.

Symptoms Of Canine Arthritis

• The dog appears to be in pain, unwilling to be picked up or touched in certain areas.
• Favoring a limb
• Decreased activity level and lethargy
• The dog has difficulty sitting or standing
• Hesitancy in jumping
• Typical sign of arthritis in dogs is stiffness in the morning

There are a variety of treatments for canine arthritis but unfortunately no cure. The main element of treating canine arthritis is pain management. Pain relieving lotions are a safe way to treat the aches and stiffness of canine arthritis. There has also been breakthroughs with accpuncture for dogs, just like they do for humans. In severe cases, sometimes surgery is needed, however less extreme treatments are recommended for dogs. A newer treatment for canine arthritis is dietary. Sulfates like glucosamine and chondroitin have been found helpful in relieving inflammation and reducing the degenerative process in some dogs. They attract fluid to the join’s cartilage system helping the body repair damaged joints while keeping the cartilage destroying enzymes under control. It’s also been said to work as a preventative measure for dogs susceptible to arthritis.

Canine arthritis can be treated pretty much the same way as they do with humans. As always check with your veterinarian if you suspect your dog to have arthritis; the vet can prescribe medication to reduce swelling and discomfort and discuss treatment.

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Dogs & Drugs
Why Sedatives & Tranquilizers May Put Your Dog To Sleep… Forever!

As far as I know, pets aren’t smoking or drinking…

…not yet, anyways.

But I hear they’re becoming regular pill-poppers!

What???

A recent report from Colorado State University noted that drug abuse among pets is becoming a serious problem. We know how dog owners tend to select pets which look like them. Now, apparently, they’re trying to get their pets to act like them.

Dr. Ben Baker of the school of Veterinary Medicine at Colorado State said, “We always here that we look like our dogs, and we do have a tendency to think that what is good for us – like vacations and baths – is also good for our dogs. And that is carrying over to tranquilizers.”

Drug manufacturers report that humans are popping pills in increasing numbers. There’s a “tranquilizer” – both prescriptive and non-prescriptive – for every complaint; however, none of them were designed for animal consumption (and more than likely not even safe long-term for humans as well).

Billions of drug prescriptions are filled each year and hundreds of billions of dollars are spent on advertising these sedatives and tranquilizers. Right now there are at least 200,000 or more drugs on the market. A survey made by a popular consumer magazine revealed that the average household has upwards near 30 prescriptions stocked in the medicine cabinet.

What Does All Of This Have To Do With Your Dog?

Dogs have been long fed tranquilizers before travel and surgery, and occasionally during various types of training. Now, however, rambunctious and noisy dogs are given sedatives to quiet them down and turn them into docile, well-behaved animals.

Dr. Baker went on to say, “I don’t think there is a serious abuse problem yet, but I’m scared that it will become one. Tranquilizers should always be a last resort in dealing with an animal.”

Veterinarians get more requests for sedatives for pets before winter and summer holidays when families are packing up for vacations. Most animals don’t need to be tranquilized to travel, however. Dogs are usually accustomed to riding in a car – they enjoy it; so even on a long trip, there should rarely be a problem. Some who are sedated wind up sleeping for days – and if the dosage is inaccurate they could sleep… forever.

The craze for big guard dogs that has swept the country has put many big dogs in small apartments and condominiums for extended periods of time. Complaining neighbors who resent the barking of a dog often motivate the owner to tranquilize the dog to keep it quiet.

My veterinarian commented, “I have some serious questions about keeping a dog penned up like that; however, with training, a barking dog can be controlled. We don’t have many dog psychiatrists, but its a rare dog that needs tranquilizing.”

People who pop pills day and night for any problem believe that their pets would be calm and tractable, too, if they were given sedatives. Once in a while they overdose their pet and he goes on a “trip.” Sometimes he doesn’t come back. Furthermore, dogs, like people, react differently to a dosage of anything; some even become more active and unmanageable when they’re drugged.

So, if your tempted to reach for that canine sedative that you got from the veterinarian whenever your pet is on some kind of rampage or seems over-excited, don’t. As yet, there is no evidence to indicate that dogs can become drug addicts, but why take any chances?

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Raw Meat Instead Of Dog Food

Dogs were born and bred to eat raw meat. The very first dogs were capable predators, and still are today. If your dog was suddenly thrown out into the wild, his hunting and predatory instinct would take over and he would kill his prey and eat their raw meat. That is how dogs were meant to be.

Now most dogs are domesticated. Owners have all but forgotten that their dog or puppy dietary needs do not consist of table scraps and/or canned dog food but of old fashioned raw meat.

Raw meat dog food provides dogs with the essentials they need to maintain optimum health. If your dog consistently ate raw meat dog food rather than over manufactured or cooked food, his digestive and immune system health would increase dramatically. You would also notice such long term changes as better quality coat and skin, clearer eyes, cleaner and fresher smelling teeth, gums and breath, increased energy and vitality and an overall happier disposition.

What a raw-food dog’s diet should consist of. All meat should, obviously, be uncooked, and may include: Eggs (with shell), beef, buffalo, venison, elk, chicken, turkey, emu, ostrich, rabbit, and fish. Small animals, like rabbits and fish, may be fed whole – dogs love it this way. At least 60-80% of your dog’s raw food diet should consist of raw meat.

Vegetables can be combined with meat, and can account for about 20-40% of your dog’s diet. You can include: Broccoli, squash, Romaine lettuce, carrots, cabbage, celery, and asparagus. Watch for any bloating or gas problems that your dog may experience. If he’s looking distended and feels sluggish, start by eliminating the broccoli (that’s usually the culprit). If that doesn’t work start be leaving out others until you find the one/ones that are affecting your dog.

To see this natural dog food recipe and other natrual dog food recipes, visit the Dog Obedience Training Review Blog.

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Dealing With Foreign Bodies

Part 2

4. Stomach

Large, smooth foreign bodies such as golf balls, stones, marbles and bones are the commonest foreign bodies to become arrested in the stomach. The dog may show various signs of distress, according to the amount of inflammation or obstruction.

In the stomach, these foreign bodies produce a mechanical gastritis, even actual ulceration, if they are present for some time. Vomiting is a constant symptom, varying in frequency with the degree of gastritis present. Inappetance, or disinclination to feed, is also seen, to a greater or lesser extent, and the temperature will be 102-103?5°F. Some dogs may have stones in their stomachs for quite a time, large dogs, such as Alsatians and Airedales, being the worst offenders. Surgery is the only method of removing the foreign bodies.

5. Intestines

In the first part of the intestines small stones and bits of bone become lodged. A foreign body in the intestines is serious. In this position a complete obstruction is caused and food cannot pass through the tube-like intestine. By pressure of the muscles of the gut, and owing to the small size of the gut cavity, a spasm of the muscle results, and very soon a congestion of local blood vessels ends in necrosis or gangrene of the intestinal wall.

There is always a local peritonitis present, and this, if rupture or puncture of the intestinal wall occurs, rapidly results in a generalised peritonitis. Surgical measures are required as soon as possible. Symptoms of such a case are: vomiting (within half to one hour of being fed), temperature is 102?5°F. or more, the back is arched, the dog has a tucked-up appearance, a tight skin, and signs of abdominal pain.

Whenever a foreign body is suspected NEVER give castor oil or any other purgative. Such dosing will generally ensure that your dog dies an agonising death within twenty-four hours.

Intestinal intussusception, a condition seen particularly in young dogs or puppies of the long-backed breeds (e.g., dachshunds), has symptoms similar to those of an intestinal foreign body. In this condition a portion of intestine passes into a lower part of the adjoining intestine. In other words, the animal tries to pass a bit of its own intestine. This is often predisposed to by an enteritis.

It is seen mainly in puppies or young dogs. The blood supply of the inverted part becomes obstructed, and the intestinal cavity is eliminated completely. Local peritonitis, vomiting and straining, together with abdominal discomfort and a temperature rise of one or more degrees, are signs of this condition, and prompt surgery is indicated. Speed is all the more essential because of the extreme youth of the patient.

6. Rectum

Small fragments of bone may become lodged in the rectum. These can often be felt by gently inserting a carefully greased finger. Restraint such as a muzzle tape may be required to perform this examination. They are also evidenced by the animal’s behaviour. Intense pain during the passing of a motion, or inability to perform this task; straining, or probably a little blood-stained faeces; all are symptoms.

The veterinary surgeon usually employs a general anaesthetic to ensure easy removal of the object; this not only frees the animal from pain but also stops the spasm of the anal sphincter, the very strong muscle surrounding the end of the rectum. Do not give a purgative, or an enema, in such cases. If you are certain of the cause of the trouble, and can feel the bone via rectum, a sedative may be given before the veterinary surgeon arrives, but if this is done he must be informed.

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Dealing With Foreign Bodies

Part 1

Objects which become lodged in various parts of an animal’s digestive tract are referred to collectively as foreign bodies. The subject is complex as the object may become arrested at any one of a number of sites. Not only will the symptoms vary but also the seriousness of the situation, therefore the subject will be discussed from beginning to end, dividing the various types of foreign body cases into geographical or anatomical areas.

1. Mouth.
2. Throat.
3. Gullet (oesophagus).
4. Stomach.
5. Intestines.
6. Rectum.

1. Mouth

The most common form of this mishap is a bit of bone or wood becoming firmly lodged across the roof of the mouth, between the back molars on each side of the upper jaw. Such an object may become tightly fixed. In most instances these can be successfully dislodged by opening the dog’s mouth and levering the wedged object out with a finger or the handle end of a spoon.

Care should be taken not to allow the dog to close his mouth until the object is well outside the mouth, otherwise he may swallow it. In some cases, however, the object becomes so firmly fixed that dental forceps may be required to dislodge it.

The signs of a foreign body in the mouth are usually obvious. The animal claws and paws frantically at his mouth, salivates profusely, and is, of course, unable to eat food. Whilst such cases are not really dangerous to the animal’s life, the sooner the offending object is removed, the better.

Needles are a different matter; they may break in the mouth, leaving the point firmly embedded in the palate or tongue. Anaesthesia and an X-ray examination are essential in most of these cases, firstly in order to facilitate the removal of the embedded portion, and secondly to find out whether the broken-off portion has been expelled, or swallowed to cause further trouble lower down.

2. Throat

Choking can happen when there is an obstruction in the airway. A foreign object can cause swelling and choking is the result. It is a common problem in pets to have something stuck in the throat. Like small children sometimes dogs will put things into their mouth out of curiosity to see if it is something they can eat.

Foreign objects need to be removed immediately. After removal check for any wounds that may result from the object. Be very careful putting your hand into your dog’s mouth as he may try to bite out of fear. DO NOT remove anything unless you can see it.

You can also remove objects by lifting and suspending a small dog (head down) or you can lift a large dog by the rear legs and tilt until the head is tilted down.

If that doesn’t work you can try a modified Heimlich maneuver can be attempted. Grasp the animal around the waist so that the rear is nearest to you, similar to a bear hug. Place a fist just behind the ribs. Compress the abdomen several times (usually 3 to 5 times) with quick pushes. Check the mouth to see if the foreign object has been removed.

Even if you are successful in removing a foreign object, veterinary examination is recommended.

3. Gullet (oesophagus)

It is usually medium-sized portions of bone that become lodged in the oesophagus, the channel which connects the mouth with the stomach. A simple way to identify this condition is to give the animal one or two small pieces of meat. If the foreign body is present in the oesophagus the dog will vomit the meat, almost at once.

The oesophagus is divided into two main regions—the head or front end situated in the neck region, and the stomach or lower end situated within the chest cavity or thorax. The latter position is a more serious site of obstruction as injury to the gullet in this region endangers many vital organs and nerves. In any case, or suspected case, of oesophageal obstruction X-ray or surgical measures are essential as rapidly as possible, in order to locate and remove the object.

Objects in the oesophagus are often spiky or pointed, or have sharp protrusions, and massage of the dog’s neck in an endeavour to move the obstruction should be avoided; it might result in laceration of the lining of the gullet.

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To some, a dog may just seem the same as the other one, they eat, they play, they sleep, and they leave a mess, could it get more complicated than that. Well, basically they do have the same needs, but there are still some distinct differences in every breed which can require some special attention. Sure they all need to exercise, but there are some differences as well. So if you own a French Bulldog, or is planning to own one, then you need to know what this differences are to ensure that you will have a happy French Bulldog and a healthy one at that.

In this article, there is a vital list of the basic things that any French Bulldog owner should know. This list will not only help you become a responsible owner, but also help those that are thinking about buying a French Bulldog to decide whether they are ready to own one today. Here is the list of those instructions in no particular order:

Cool area in their home or in their garden – French Bulldogs find heat as their waterloo. Because of their oddly shaped head, French Bulldogs find it difficult to dispel heat. They also have trouble breathing when it’s too warm and when they are tired. Make sure that if you live in an area with a warm climate, an air-conditioned room should be available for them. Also, your garden should have areas where shades are available where they can lunge around in not too warm days. Providing your pet with a good shelter makes him feel important and valued.

Have water accessible – Water will help them dispel heat. French Bulldogs tend to overheat so they need to rehydrate often. Even with just a small time spent exercising, they will soon become thirsty and panting, so have a water bowl ready inside and outside your home.

Exercise your French Bulldog – Unlike other dogs though, French Bulldogs cannot be kept active for a prolonged period of time. They tire easily and needs short breaks from time to time. Walking and exercising is necessary for strength development of the dog, so dog owners usually do it twice a day. This also helps them to dispel waste outside your home. Plus, prevent your French Bulldog from overheating when walking him by doing your exercises at dawn and at night time where the sun can’t bet down hard on your pet.

Well balanced diet – Quality dog food should be the norm. A healthy diet will help keep your dog strong to ward off any health conditions. It will also keep your dog looking good with its coat shiny and vibrant.

Respect your dog – treat it humanely and as part of the family. Provide it with the attention it needs and spend quality time with it. French Bulldogs in particular need more human attention than other dogs. Try to spend also on dog products like chew toys and treats. A good collar will not only keep it nearby with a leash, but also help it find its way home if it gets lost.

And finally, keep some time and money for vet visits. Your vet is your best friend and ally in keeping your French Bulldog healthy and happy.

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Aging is something that happens to every living thing. This includes your beloved four-legged friends, your dogs. For these beloved friends there are natural ways to improve your pet’s life. Give it a better quality of life.

Your Dog’s Life Span

Depending on the size of your dog the average life span is about 12.8 years.. Large dogs like Great Danes have a life span of about 9 years, whereas a small dog like Jack Russels can live as long as 12-13 years or longer if their health is good. If they are large dog they reach their senior years about 5 years of age, whereas a small dog is about
8 years of age.

For Starters

• Antioxidants – these protect the body against the adverse effects of substances that can increase aging. Some of these antioxidants are vitamins A, C and E also selenium and can be found in many herbs and vegetables. Ask your local vet which ones are best for your dogs.

• Exercise – this is always the best remedy you can do for your dog. It’s the best ‘remedy’ for staying trim and in shape, because it keeps the heart strong, the joints limber and the lungs healthy. The older dog should walk everyday for at least 20 minutes.

• Good Quality Food – good quality food should have organic ingredients like mostly meat, no artificial coloring or flavors. Preservatives in foods can be harmful. Homemade is best, there are lots of recipes out there. Be aware that your dog is a senior and calorie intake should be low. Omega-3 fatty acids are found in fish oils, flax-seed oil and other sources. They are amazing for the body especially in a senior canine.

• Excessive Vaccines, Antibiotics and Steroids – avoid these as much as possible. Older dogs bodies don’t detoxify drugs very well. Natural remedies are best. Check with your holistic vet if you are unsure of what to do.

Dogs Health Problems

Arthritis:
This is something that is common in most animals. If your dog has arthritis it is very likely that they will not be as active as before. It is most likely that they are sore and may resent being touched.

There are natural remedies/supplements that you can use. Natural Supplements include glucosemine, chondroitin and MSM. Omega-3, vitamin C and other supplements may also be helpful. Acupuncture and Chiropractic are great for easing pain and helping to restore normal function, One treatment may help but as a dog ages visits can be more frequent. Herbal Remedies They can be of great help and are often less expensive than synthetic drugs. Willow bark, meadowsweet and St. John’s Wart are great for treating pain caused by arthritis. You can also use cayenne, wild yam, devil’s claw and yucca.

Cataracts:
Like people, dogs especially older dogs, can also get cataracts, You can try eyebright, it may help prevent cataracts from progressing. It can be given like eye drops or can be taken orally.

The Dreaded Weight Problem

Like with people, over eating and eating the wrong foods can lead to obesity. Like with people obesity can lead to other problems with their health. Calorie intake should be at least 20% lower in older dogs. The best thing you can do for them is give them a proper diet and plenty of exercise.

Avoiding Dogs Depression

Good nutrition with adequate exercise is most important. Dogs, like people, need to be able to stimulate their minds. Gingko can help a lot but make sure you check with your holistic vet on ANY herbals you use to help your best bud.

The Crotchety Old Dog

Well, what can I say. We all know an old guy that is just like that. Dogs can get that way too. OK females can get that way also. We, the female are not immune as much as we hate to admit it. Flower Essence (Bach Flower) can help with the emotions, clematis may restore alertness and Mustard can restore serenity.

Deteriorating Senses

Like anything to do with aging, the senses start to go. Hearing, sight, smell and a sense of direction all get diminished as they age just like us. Gingko can help increase
the blood flow to the brain and enhance the senses. To help improve the general quality of life stimulating herbs like ginger, cayenne and ginseng might help.

Aging is an unavoidable event in all mammals. Fortunately for our dogs, our best buds, many natural remedies are available out there, Again I will say and I can’t say this enough when choosing to use natural herbs and remedies ALWAYS, ALWAYS const consult with your Holistic Vet and/or Veterinary Practitioner.

Life is Great and we want our dogs, our best buddies, to be around for as long as possible.

©2010 Teri Champigny. All Rights Reserved

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Man has come a long way from his humble beginnings. The time when he had first encounter with fire has been buried deep down beyond history pages. There have been a lot of innovations brought about by his genius and determination to make life easier, safer, and well longer. Needs are not the only ones flooding the market because luxuries and other miscellaneous aspects have gradually become a way of life. Cable television is continually challenged by satellite TV. Mobile phones are always showcased in better and more advanced models. Nowadays pets have even matched the quality of life man has. Insurance policies have been allotted to ensure that their welfare is safeguarded.

There are a lot of concepts revolving around pet insurance so if you plan to avail one for your beloved buddy make sure that no stones are left unturned. There are some technical and legal terms that you have to be familiar with. Come on and take some time to bag a few.

There is a document known as the benefit schedule which is made by the pet insurance companies. This contains the list of allowances that are to be paid for after a known and certified diagnosis and treatment. A deductible is an amount wherein payment rests on the policy holder’s shoulder. This covers the charge for the veterinary services accessed. An exclusion is a condition that is not part or is excluded from the plan or insurance policy.

These are just the basic elements of your pet insurance policy so let’s start going deeper. There are policy limits like annual, per-incident, and lifetime which when used up to the brink no longer allows payment of claims. Pre-certification is executed when a certain pet owner gives a request regarding the treatment needed by his pet in order to know if such treatment will be covered and to what extent will it be implemented. There are health conditions that are labeled as pre-existing meaning they have happened or have been incurred way before the pet insurance policy came into being. There are some pre-existing conditions that are given eligibility for coverage as long as it has been cured or a specific time frame elapses. Coinsurance is the portion of your claim which you are tasked to pay for before established deductibles are applied.

Pet insurance is a sure fire move to ensure the welfare of your pet but you must also have an idea of other options that you can tap on. You can check with your reliable Vet as some health facilities can help you avail discounted wellness and preventive packages such as neuters and vaccinations. You can also take advantage of discounted programs that may include 50 percent on animal supplies and 25 percent for diagnostic and treatment services.

Another thing you can rely on is the existence of humane and non-profit organizations which are ready to lend a financial boost for owners who are in need.  Although there are affiliations that engage in such activities it is the responsibility of the pet owner to have savings to rely on when their pets are placed in emergency life-threatening situations.

Pet insurance just like other insurance programs need proper deciphering and evaluation. If you see it fit that in the present condition of your pet such health plan is needed and you have the necessary resources then go for it. Your pets are part of the family so treat them as one.

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Over 50% of the population allows their dog to stay indoors and sleep on the couch or in their owner’s bed. For those of you who are interested in building a dog house for you beloved pet here are some simple rules to follow when considering what type of shelter you want to provide.

1. You should begin your dog house building process by making sure the house is big enough to accommodate your animal’s potential adult size. Humans enjoy having about 2 feet of air above us in a room in order to live without feeling claustrophobic. Your dog will probably also enjoy having that much room. The comfort zone for both humans and dogs is about 1/3 of their standing height.

To figure out how much room the dog will need get out a tape measure and measure your dog. Measure him standing straight up, sitting on his haunches and above all measure the full dimension of the dog when he is the most comfortable, relaxed and stretched out position he can get into. Your dog should be able to look out the front entrance while both standing up and sitting. So the dog will not have to significantly lover his front shoulders or scrape his belly make sure that entrance is high enough. Stand over the dog and measure the width of the widest point of the animal’s shoulders.

2. Remember to raise the dog house several inches from the ground to allow air and water to flow underneath. To dissuade pests from invading the dog house and taking your dogs health into consideration remember how important ventilation is. Put in a few nickel-sized holes in the walls under the eaves. Install a wind block inside the house so the dog can use the heat of its own body to warm up the area if it is really cold or windy outside. Consider adding a partial wall which will allow your dog to escape the bad weather.

Your animal can choose to just sleep in the entry room or go around the inner archway maze wall into the inner sanctum. Your beloved pet would probably love having a pillow or some sort of bedding to sleep on.

3. To avoid rain coming into the dog house make the floor just a bit slanted toward the doorway and build the roof a little bit slanted, as well. Make sure the house is well insulated but you should not paint the inside.

4. In the United States most storms come from the south and west so make sure the dog house faces a different direction. Most dog house plans suggest that the dog house door faces east. The cold air will not be able to whip through the entryway then.

5. It is suggested that you put hinges on the roof of the dog house. This makes it easier for you to clean out your dog’s home. You should clean the dog’s house as often as you give your dog a bath.

If your dog lives outside then he deserves to have a comfortable place to sleep and get out of harsh weather. Hopefully these easy tips on building a dog house will help you get started.

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