As people pay attention to their own healthcare, they should not overlook the well-being and health of their pets, too. Dogs are men’s best friends. In this regard, they also deserve the kind of care and affection that most people do. Thus, what do you do when your dog needs to undergo a $5,000 hip surgical procedure during its senior years? Some pet owners are right to assert that most of the time, veterinary costs for dogs, and other pets, are much higher than actual healthcare costs of their owners. This is not surprising because dog treatment and surgical operations could be more complicated, tedious, and demanding.

Your canine companion would not be young and in the pink of health forever. During times of financial difficulties like today, overall dog care is also compromised. Veterinary clinics in the United States have revealed that overall dog checkups and treatment procedures have been declining since the onset of the current economic crunch. Would you find it alright to know that your best friend would be suffering from an illness or an accident and you would not be able to give him proper treatment because it is just too expensive to do so? Your pet’s overall protection would be a pet insurance policy.

Experts assert that the best time to buy a pet insurance for your dog is the moment you purchase it. It would be cheaper if you would secure an insurance product while the dog is still a puppy than to secure one when the dog is already several years old. Premium costs would also be comparatively more affordable. Make sure the insurance policy you buy is something that would be best and most appropriate for the dog. For example, some insurance programs do not cover several pedigrees or cross breeds due to scientific reasons. But there certainly would be insurance products that fit those dogs.

Aside from the costs and the type of insurance, it is also important that you check the terms and conditions of the product. Is there an expiration period? What is the method of filing for claims? Are there additional charges? Find an insurance product that would cover third-party damages your dog could incur to other people.

For instance, if your dog accidentally bites an individual, you must cover the medical expenses. If your pet has incurred damages to properties, it would also be your responsibility to cover the damage costs. Some insurance products are extensive to also cover such provisions. Find such products and prefer them over others as much as possible.

Check the overall coverage of the pet insurance. In most cases, pet insurance policies only cover illness and accident recoveries. Some include coverage for hospitalization, while others until death. Usually, regular and periodic checkups of the dog are not covered. Basic health and physical care is not also covered like fur trimming or nail clipping. Vaccination against viral infections and diseases are also not usually included in the pet insurance coverage as well as food supplementation.

However, medicines and other treatment materials that are prescribed for recovery against ailment or accident could very well be included in your filing for claims. It is important that you know which items and health actions are covered and which are not.

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Mishaps to these parts of the dog’s anatomy are fairly frequent. The three main causes of trouble are:

1.       Torn ears (from fighting or by barbed wire).

2.       Haematoma (a haemorrhage under the skin of the ear flap).

3.       Foreign bodies in the outer ear canal (e.g., grass seeds).

1.    Torn ears

Dogs do not, however, bleed to death from bitten ears, and the bleeding will cease within a few minutes if pieces of cotton wool soaked in cold water are held firmly over the wounded area, one each side of the injured flap. If the wound is extensive, i.e., more than 2″ long, it is advisable to have the injury attended by a veterinary surgeon, but before taking him to the surgery bandage the ear upwards over the head, the bandage going right round the neck and thus enveloping the whole ear and neck region. This will stop the dog shaking his head during the journey and so starting a fresh flow of blood. If the wound is small, clean it with a little cold water containing a suitable antiseptic, and with a pad of cotton wool or gauze each side of the ear flap, bandage the ear over the head as described. This may be removed one or two days later, and the wound kept clean until it has healed. In spaniels, and long-coated dogs, it will be necessary to clip some of the hair away to ensure a clean wound.

2.    Haematoma

A dog’s ear consists in section of a layer of skin, then a thin layer of cartilage, then a further layer of skin.

Occasionally, especially in large-eared dogs, a violent shaking of the head causes a rupture of one of the many small blood vessels supplying the skin and the tissues below. This results in the ear flap becoming suddenly hard and balloon-like. The condition is not serious but may need surgical measures to return the ear to normal size. This, of course, will have to be carried out by a veterinary surgeon. As this condition is usually the result of violent head shaking or ear scratching it is as well to have the ears examined to make sure there is nothing producing an irritation in the ear canal itself. Such an irritation can result from a local infection, or can be produced by:

3. Foreign bodies in the ear

Grass seeds occasionally work their way down the ear, into the external canal of this organ, resulting in an acute irritation. The animal holds its head on one side, whimpers, and is in obvious discomfort. It should be promptly seen by a veterinary surgeon who, by means of a special instrument, will be able to see the seed, and with special forceps remove it. Some cases will require an anaesthetic. The earlier this is attended to the better, as presence of the grass seed will result in a sore ear, and maybe a secondary infection.

Do not pour oil or any other liquid into the ear. This will make the veterinary surgeon’s job more difficult, by obscuring his range of vision when he examines the ear with the auriscope.

Do not probe or poke about in the ear with forceps or pieces of cotton wool. This will push the grass seed further down.

If an ear is damaged in a fight, or by sharp wire, it will bleed fairly profusely. In addition, the irritation caused often makes the animal shake his head violently, which adds to the bleeding and also spatters blood in all directions. Blood is a good example of a little going a long way; within a few moments of the injury the dog appears to have lost at least half its total amount. 

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Using Inhalations

These can be exceedingly unpopular with canine patients but are nevertheless prescribed quite frequently for catarrhal infections, such as are found in distemper.

A narrow vessel (for example, a jug or stone jar) is well warmed in the oven, rinsed out with boiling water and refilled with boiling water plus the medicament chosen. This is usually Friar’s Balsam or eucalyptus. Friar’s Balsam may stain the vessel so eucalyptus (one teaspoonful to the pint) is preferable. Hold the dog’s head over the steam so that he inhales it. The animal must be held firmly throughout (usually for periods of 3-5 minutes, two, three or four times a day) in case he scalds himself.

Another excellent method of treatment by inhalation is the bronchitis kettle, familiar to most mothers.

This resembles an ordinary kettle but the spout is about two feet long. The kettle should be kept boiling on a small stove or spirit-lamp and the spout directed to the dog’s bed. A tea-chest placed on its side with wire over the front so that the dog cannot get out makes a splendid “steam tent” for a small patient. Travelling boxes can be adapted for this purpose. The kettle should be placed near the box with the spout directed at the opening, and a rug can be thrown over part of the front in order to concentrate the vapour. One or two teaspoonfuls of Friar’s Balsam can be added to the water in the kettle. This treatment should be carried out for about 10 minutes at a time, and repeated 2 or 3 times daily.

Nasal drops are sometimes prescribed. Most of these act by contracting the blood vessels in the lining of the nose, thereby reducing the inflammation and congestion. The dog’s head should be tilted well back and a medicine dropper, procurable from any chemist, is often preferable to the one supplied with the drops, which is sometimes rather large for easy insertion into a dog’s small nostrils.

Diets For Invailid Dogs

A diet for a sick or convalescent dog should be light, palatable and nourishing. Broadly speaking, there is no necessity to feed dogs at night as uninterrupted sleep will be of far more benefit.

It would obviously be a mistake, however, for the stomach to be overloaded with one or two large meals with which the digestive organs are unable to deal, so several small meals should be given. Milk, although very nourishing and a great stand-by, is not always suitable by itself and may have to be modified with Benger’s. Sometimes milk food made from one of the powdered full-cream infant foods is relished when ordinary milk fails to appeal. Baked custards (made with eggs) are usually much appreciated. Unless contraindicated, glucose can be added to all milky dishes. As it requires no digestion before assimilation it is a very valuable food. Far ex, milk puddings, crushed cornflakes and milk and Brand’s Essence are all useful items in invalid diet. Brand’s Essence is of particular value in cases of weakness, debility and prostration.

When diarrhoea is present give white fish boiled in milk, raw chopped meat in very small quantities and boiled rabbit can be given in convalescence. Eggs are more easily digested when given beaten up with milk, lightly boiled, or in custards. Barley water is best in kidney cases. Some of the lighter breakfast foods—cornflakes, rice crisps, and so on— bridge the gap between very light invalid food and more solid diet. The change from one to the other should always be gradual, particularly where there has been diarrhoea and vomiting.

Sometimes strong black coffee or brandy mixed with milk is advised when prostration or collapse is present. Do not be tempted to give too much at one time— a very sick dog should have only a few teaspoonfuls every two or three hours. Keep all spoons and dishes very clean and never leave food in the sick-room.

Avoid rich, indigestible foods such as herrings, sardines, and whale meat. Obviously dog biscuit should not be given. Rusks or lightly baked brown bread make a good substitute as convalescence progresses.

Dietary supplements containing vitamins are particularly important to the convalescent animal. The most necessary vitamins at this time are A, B complex and D. A comprehensive supplement such as Vivomin (Crookes) is the best way of supplying these essential factors. Fresh raw or lightly cooked liver is a rich source of the vitamin B complex. If liver is used be sure that it is absolutely fresh, and if such a supply is unobtainable one of the very good liver extracts on the market may be used instead. Do not use dried liver or liver meal.

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