Dealing With Feeding and Fevers

“Feeding” is a misnomer in this connection as one of the most important points to remember when considering the diet of a sick dog is that an animal with a temperature of over 103°F. should not be fed with normal solid food. The less work the digestive organs have to do, the better, and the lack of appetite usually present is nature’s way of pointing out that food is not required as long as fever is present. In fact, excessive feeding can prolong the illness and increase its severity.

Fluids are absolutely essential, however, and if the dog will not take them voluntarily they must be given frequently like medicine, a tablespoonful or so at a time. Glucose and boiled water is excellent for this purpose, but not milk as this, although a liquid, is definitely a food. When the temperature has returned to normal a very light fluid diet can be begun, such as milk, beaten-up egg in milk, etc., but any rise in temperature should be a signal for a return to glucose and water. Nervous complications in the virus diseases such as hard-pad are far less likely if this method is adopted, and the animal will recover more quickly as he is not being called upon to deal with quantities of food when unable to profit from them. The fluid intake will help very considerably in elimination of waste products—always very important in feverish illnesses.

Separating Dog Fights

Occasionally one has the misfortune to have one’s dog attacked by (or even for it to attack!) another dog. Usually, a few well-chosen words, and a sharp tap on the rump with the lead or stick, will divert the aggressor’s attention. However, when animals really start fighting it is not a simple matter to stop them. Do not try to separate them with your hands if a stick or lead is available. A walking-stick is ideal; the handle placed through the collar of the attacker and then twisted so that the collar tightens on the throat will make him release his grip, and when separated he is still well under control. A lead, used as a noose, can also be used for this but is not so effective.
Douching with cold water is also a fairly effective method of temporarily separating fighting animals, although it is not always possible to have a supply of cold water to hand!

Giving An Enema

Giving an enema is not a task for the light hearted and should be thought out carefully. Use this as a last resort and if possible by a vet and not yourself unless you absolutely know how to do the procedure. This is one method of giving an enema.

An enema is not often needed but is sometimes used in constipation and in illnesses where it is inadvisable to give an aperient or purgative by mouth.

To give an enema, place the dog on a table—with large dogs, preferably in a yard—and have a jug containing the fluid at a higher level. Fill the syringe, making sure it is full as an injection of air can be very painful. Vaseline the bone point and insert into the rectum for its whole length (about seven inches). Give the injection slowly, then remove the syringe with a quick, smooth movement. Press the dog’s flanks together for a few moments to give the enema a chance to act.

After use, wash the enema syringe in warm, soapy water and rinse in a solution of Dettol and water. It should be hung in a cool place to dry.

An enema consists of an injection of fluid into the bowel, by means of a syringe. For small dogs a straight glass syringe can be used, but for general use the ordinary Higginson’s type of rubber apparatus is preferable. For simple constipation only a small injection is needed—for a toy, half a teaspoonful of glycerine mixed with two tablespoonfuls of warm water. For medium-sized dogs double the quantity, and for collie size four times. Soapy water (made from pure soap flakes or Castile soap) can be used instead of glycerine. In the case of a real obstruction —that is, not simple constipation—double the quantity can be given and the enema repeated three or four times.

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Aging is something that happens to every living thing. This includes your beloved four-legged friends, your dogs. For these beloved friends there are natural ways to improve your pet’s life. Give it a better quality of life.

Your Dog’s Life Span

Depending on the size of your dog the average life span is about 12.8 years.. Large dogs like Great Danes have a life span of about 9 years, whereas a small dog like Jack Russels can live as long as 12-13 years or longer if their health is good. If they are large dog they reach their senior years about 5 years of age, whereas a small dog is about
8 years of age.

For Starters

• Antioxidants – these protect the body against the adverse effects of substances that can increase aging. Some of these antioxidants are vitamins A, C and E also selenium and can be found in many herbs and vegetables. Ask your local vet which ones are best for your dogs.

• Exercise – this is always the best remedy you can do for your dog. It’s the best ‘remedy’ for staying trim and in shape, because it keeps the heart strong, the joints limber and the lungs healthy. The older dog should walk everyday for at least 20 minutes.

• Good Quality Food – good quality food should have organic ingredients like mostly meat, no artificial coloring or flavors. Preservatives in foods can be harmful. Homemade is best, there are lots of recipes out there. Be aware that your dog is a senior and calorie intake should be low. Omega-3 fatty acids are found in fish oils, flax-seed oil and other sources. They are amazing for the body especially in a senior canine.

• Excessive Vaccines, Antibiotics and Steroids – avoid these as much as possible. Older dogs bodies don’t detoxify drugs very well. Natural remedies are best. Check with your holistic vet if you are unsure of what to do.

Dogs Health Problems

Arthritis:
This is something that is common in most animals. If your dog has arthritis it is very likely that they will not be as active as before. It is most likely that they are sore and may resent being touched.

There are natural remedies/supplements that you can use. Natural Supplements include glucosemine, chondroitin and MSM. Omega-3, vitamin C and other supplements may also be helpful. Acupuncture and Chiropractic are great for easing pain and helping to restore normal function, One treatment may help but as a dog ages visits can be more frequent. Herbal Remedies They can be of great help and are often less expensive than synthetic drugs. Willow bark, meadowsweet and St. John’s Wart are great for treating pain caused by arthritis. You can also use cayenne, wild yam, devil’s claw and yucca.

Cataracts:
Like people, dogs especially older dogs, can also get cataracts, You can try eyebright, it may help prevent cataracts from progressing. It can be given like eye drops or can be taken orally.

The Dreaded Weight Problem

Like with people, over eating and eating the wrong foods can lead to obesity. Like with people obesity can lead to other problems with their health. Calorie intake should be at least 20% lower in older dogs. The best thing you can do for them is give them a proper diet and plenty of exercise.

Avoiding Dogs Depression

Good nutrition with adequate exercise is most important. Dogs, like people, need to be able to stimulate their minds. Gingko can help a lot but make sure you check with your holistic vet on ANY herbals you use to help your best bud.

The Crotchety Old Dog

Well, what can I say. We all know an old guy that is just like that. Dogs can get that way too. OK females can get that way also. We, the female are not immune as much as we hate to admit it. Flower Essence (Bach Flower) can help with the emotions, clematis may restore alertness and Mustard can restore serenity.

Deteriorating Senses

Like anything to do with aging, the senses start to go. Hearing, sight, smell and a sense of direction all get diminished as they age just like us. Gingko can help increase
the blood flow to the brain and enhance the senses. To help improve the general quality of life stimulating herbs like ginger, cayenne and ginseng might help.

Aging is an unavoidable event in all mammals. Fortunately for our dogs, our best buds, many natural remedies are available out there, Again I will say and I can’t say this enough when choosing to use natural herbs and remedies ALWAYS, ALWAYS const consult with your Holistic Vet and/or Veterinary Practitioner.

Life is Great and we want our dogs, our best buddies, to be around for as long as possible.

©2010 Teri Champigny. All Rights Reserved

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Golden Retriever

For beginners, breeding Golden Retrievers is nearly impossible. Breeding can be very complicated, although it can be easy as well. You should never attempt to breed unless you know a lot about the requirements that are needed for the breed you are intending to breed. It is simply unfair to the breed if you have a litter of puppies that simply aren’t what the breed standards list for the Golden Retriever. People who look to buy Golden Retrievers only want top quality, which is why you shouldn’t attempt to breed just have a puppies or make a few bucks.

Breeding Golden Retrievers is a very serious hobby and not to be taken lightly. One should be aware of what they are letting themselves in for. There is a certain amount of cost and care involved with breeding, especially if breeders are going for a certain quality. There is also a lot of responsibility involved as well, which can take quite a bit of time to say the least.

Motivation for breeding

When looking to breed, quality breeders will have a lot of choices in front of them. To get the highest quality possible from the litter, the breeder will need to determine the traits of both dogs, temperaments, and how well they seem to react to one another. The breeder will also need to determine in either of the dogs have any type of health problems, to prevent any diseases or ailments from being passed on to the litter.

Sometimes, when breeding a young Golden Retriever, the mother of the litter might not want to feed her young, in which case the breeder might have to coax her into feeding her puppies or if the mother won’t feed the puppies at all then breeder will need to do it for her. This can be the most time consuming aspect of breeding, as the breeder will have to feed the young and make sure that they turn out as healthy as possible.

Aside from that, breeders also face quite a bit of costs as well. The prices for daily care, food, and vet bills can be very steep to say the least. When you crunch the numbers, you’ll quickly realize that breeders don’t make much money at all when they sale. Most breeders do it for the love of the breed. Quality breeders on the other hand aren’t concerned with money at all, as they are more concerned about the quality of their litters. Quality is better than quantity, as even the best breeders out there have problems selling puppies from time to time.

Although breeding is fun for hobby breeders, it is something you really shouldn’t be doing if you unless you are willing to take on the responsibility and doing the research to do it right. Although your Golden may get pregnant by a dog of a different breed without you knowing it, you should do your best to avoid it at all costs if you can. A pure bred Golden Retriever should be bred only with dogs of her breed, to help preserve the breed and keep their bloodline going. If you have thought about breeding in the past – you should really study long and hard before you actually make a reality of it.

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Eclampsia is a condition seen in the bitch and it generally occurs about the time of whelping, or it may occur during the suckling period. This condition is caused by a lowering of the blood calcium which in turn is due to the heavy demands made by various detoxication processes which go on about the time of parturition, and also to the heavy draw on the bitch’s reserves by having to produce large amounts of milk. The bitch with a first litter is not commonly affected, it being a condition more usual with the mature mother. Eclampsia is commonest in the bitch with the large litter, especially when she has “done the puppies well”.

The first symptom is an alteration in temperament. The bitch appears distressed and fussed for apparently no reason. Some bitches become very excited and may even have hysteria. They then become lethargic, have a sub-normal temperature, may show epileptiform convulsions and, in very advanced cases, become cold, comatose and moribund. Any panting, shivering, or unusual distress in an in-milk or lactating bitch should be regarded as possible eclampsia.

The only specific treatment for this deficiency condition is the replacement of the lacking blood calcium. This can be done adequately only by the administration of calcium by injection, and if the condition is suspected your veterinary surgeon should be informed immediately. There is a degree of urgency in these cases as some bitches rapidly become comatose.

There are several steps which, if taken promptly, will greatly retard the onset of the advanced symptoms of the condition. Firstly, remove the puppies, or allow them to remain in the bitch’s presence but do not allow them to feed from her. This will prevent any further immediate drain on her calcium reserves. If the bitch has symptoms of hysteria or over-excitability give a small dose of sedative (2—5 gr. pot. bromide). In any case, keep her absolutely still and quiet and as warm as possible. If available, one or two 5 gr. calcium lactate tablets crushed in a little milk may be given by mouth. These should be continued daily after she has received her calcium injection and until the puppies have been weaned. An adequate supply of Vitamin D should also be given during convalescence.

Prevention of Eclampsia

As this condition is due to a deficiency of calcium in the bloodstream of the nursing bitch much can be done to make its onset less likely by the inclusion of calcium, phosphorous, and so on, in the diet. Bitches should be given both milk and bone meal (this is specially prepared for animal feeding and is not the kind sold for gardens) from the sixth week of pregnancy until the puppies are weaned. Milk is a rich natural source of calcium, and bone meal supplies the essential minerals in an easily assimilated form. A rich source of Vitamin D should always be given as this aids the utilisation of calcium and phosphorus—halibut oil or Vivomin (Crookes) are good examples.

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As people pay attention to their own healthcare, they should not overlook the well-being and health of their pets, too. Dogs are men’s best friends. In this regard, they also deserve the kind of care and affection that most people do. Thus, what do you do when your dog needs to undergo a $5,000 hip surgical procedure during its senior years? Some pet owners are right to assert that most of the time, veterinary costs for dogs, and other pets, are much higher than actual healthcare costs of their owners. This is not surprising because dog treatment and surgical operations could be more complicated, tedious, and demanding.

Your canine companion would not be young and in the pink of health forever. During times of financial difficulties like today, overall dog care is also compromised. Veterinary clinics in the United States have revealed that overall dog checkups and treatment procedures have been declining since the onset of the current economic crunch. Would you find it alright to know that your best friend would be suffering from an illness or an accident and you would not be able to give him proper treatment because it is just too expensive to do so? Your pet’s overall protection would be a pet insurance policy.

Experts assert that the best time to buy a pet insurance for your dog is the moment you purchase it. It would be cheaper if you would secure an insurance product while the dog is still a puppy than to secure one when the dog is already several years old. Premium costs would also be comparatively more affordable. Make sure the insurance policy you buy is something that would be best and most appropriate for the dog. For example, some insurance programs do not cover several pedigrees or cross breeds due to scientific reasons. But there certainly would be insurance products that fit those dogs.

Aside from the costs and the type of insurance, it is also important that you check the terms and conditions of the product. Is there an expiration period? What is the method of filing for claims? Are there additional charges? Find an insurance product that would cover third-party damages your dog could incur to other people.

For instance, if your dog accidentally bites an individual, you must cover the medical expenses. If your pet has incurred damages to properties, it would also be your responsibility to cover the damage costs. Some insurance products are extensive to also cover such provisions. Find such products and prefer them over others as much as possible.

Check the overall coverage of the pet insurance. In most cases, pet insurance policies only cover illness and accident recoveries. Some include coverage for hospitalization, while others until death. Usually, regular and periodic checkups of the dog are not covered. Basic health and physical care is not also covered like fur trimming or nail clipping. Vaccination against viral infections and diseases are also not usually included in the pet insurance coverage as well as food supplementation.

However, medicines and other treatment materials that are prescribed for recovery against ailment or accident could very well be included in your filing for claims. It is important that you know which items and health actions are covered and which are not.

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Buying a Pet ID tag is like buying insurance – you do so with the devout wish that you’re never going to need it. The “possible cost” of not having a pet ID tag is more expensive than the “actual cost” of buying the pet tag itself.

Consider the following before purchasing any pet id tag:

1. What is the level of risk to your pet?

Lost pets are certainly common – we’ve all seen “Lost Dog!” signs tacked around town, or dead pets lying by the side of the road. If your pet is a master at escaping the fence, or a breed of dog that cannot resist following a scent, or a young pet that’s full of energy, or a new pet that isn’t properly trained, the risk of a lost pet is high. But losing your pet isn’t the only risk.

Some pets are stolen. A pet thief may snatch Fifi or Fido in hopes of getting a reward for its return, or to use in dog fights (even small or gentle dogs are susceptible – they can be used as “bait”), or for use in cult rituals.

2. What level of risk are you comfortable with?

Some pets are simply more important to their owners, and the risk of losing that particular animal warrants a specific, more expensive type of pet ID tag. Risk is proportionate to value.

3. Based on your answers to the two previous questions, what do you need in a pet ID tag?

Pet ID tags come in varying shapes, sizes and materials and hold varying amounts of information. Some contain logos or artwork, too. Most pet ID tags are designed to be hung from a collar.

No matter what pet ID tag you choose, making sure your pet wears some type of pet identification tag brings peace of mind that far outweighs its costs.

Most people do not know how to treat their pets when their pets needs them most. Surprisingly, a lot of people do not even have the education or knowledge on how to care for their pets.

A pet’s life might be endangered if the owner does not have knowledge of First Aid. For example: If pets suffers from the aches and pains of old age and arthritis or it swallows a household poison like chocolate, do the owners know how to deal with it? Most of the time the answer is “NO” as they are cluless on what to do next. So the next best action that a owner can do is to educate themselves better on how to care for their pets. If you have the knowledge, you will be able to – Instantly decide on a course of action for your ailing pet – so you can ease the pain and start treatment immediately:

• You can find natural and effective remedies regardless of your financial situation so your pet doesn’t have to go without treatment.

• Quickly diagnose your sick or injured pet – so you can instantly know if you can administer care yourself or if you should seed medical help immediately.

• Immediately begin regimens that have been proven to halt and or prevent diseases such as cancer and diabetes – so your pet can live a long and healthy life with you.

If the owner has very little knowledge and they are too dependent on the veterenarian, then the vet is the owner’s only option. A pet will suffer because sometimes the owners:

• Delay bringing their pet in for treatment because the pet becomes ill after hours

• Rely exclusively on harsh drug treatments because they (and their vets) are unaware of effective, gentle, natural ways to treat their pet.

• Discontinue treatment for chronic illnesses because it’s complicated or expensive

• Aren’t able to afford an office visit and or follow up treatment.

Most pet owners have no idea how to perform CPR, or even begin to give basic medical care to their pet. But you should know these things, because in some emergencies, you can’t always get to a vet in time. That is why it is so important for everybody who loves and cares for a pets to have the appropriate information. It might even saves your pet’s life one day.

So the question now is where to get the education and correct information? Well, you can get books focusing on dogs, cats, behavior problems, chronic illness, and even trauma. Then, you can find books on herbal remedies – presuming you already know which are safe for dogs and which for cats and which could cause complications (including death). Add to your list, books on dental health, acupressure, and homeopathy.

Much will depend on the time of year whether the dog is allowed out to relieve himself or not. If possible, house-trained dogs should always be taken out for this purpose (if necessary wearing a coat and on a lead to prevent undue excitement or exertion) as a very clean dog will suffer if forced to “misbehave” indoors.

In hot summer weather the dog is probably better outdoors for part of the time provided he is not allowed to run about much (he could be kept in a small run) and is protected from strong sunlight. Ask your veterinary surgeon and be guided by what he says.

If the dog is not allowed out the floor of the room must be protected. If possible, carpets should be removed but if this is impracticable two thick layers of newspaper with a thin sprinkling of sawdust in between is usually sufficient.

Of course a kennel is much more practical, but it should be a large one of the shed type, in which there is room for a table, a good light, and ample space for handling. A cramped kennel in which it is impossible to stand upright is obviously not a suitable sick-room! House dogs will usually be nursed in a spare room, to which reference has already been made.

Whichever is used, good ventilation without a draught must be ensured. Stuffy sick-rooms are an abomination. In winter the temperature should be kept to about 60°F. A room thermometer is useful. Whatever form of heating is arranged, it must be absolutely safe. If it is impossible to arrange this, the dog can be kept perfectly warm with light rugs and hot water-bottles and, if necessary, he can wear a woolly coat. The hot water-bottle should be regularly refilled. If the dog is well enough to be out of his bed most of the time artificial heating will be necessary only in cold weather. Fresh air is essential and provided.

If the dog is warm, and in lung cases wears a pneumonia jacket, he will come to no harm. Cleanliness of both the patient and his surroundings is essential. The room itself should be kept spotless and any excreta removed immediately. The dog should be groomed daily if well enough, and even if he cannot be moved from his bed it is usually possible to brush him gently with a soft brush or massage his skin with your fingers. If the dog is very ill he must not be disturbed for anything but essentials, but in the ordinary way the average well-cared-for dog, especially in the long-coated breeds, will appreciate this gentle grooming, just as a human patient will feel better for the refreshing daily wash.

The bed should be sufficiently roomy for the dog to turn and stretch in comfort. For small dogs, a tea-chest on its side with a three – to four-inch board nailed.

Across the bottom of the opening will be found very useful. It keeps out draughts and the dog will feel cosy and private. The front can have a wired door if the patient is a restless puppy, running a high temperature, and determined to commit suicide by leaving his box and lying in an icy draught from the room door.

The bedding can be straw, pine-shavings or blankets. The latter should be used only for clean cases, and it is a useful idea to have the blankets covered by a small linen sheet or light flannelette cot blanket which can be easily washed and frequently renewed.

The tea-chest plan is useful when the dog is suffering from a nervous disease, as it is possible to arrange a sack or blanket to shade the front opening and keep the patient inside sleeping in the dark without having the whole room darkened.

Whatever bedding is used, it must be kept clean and often renewed. If straw is used, shake it up frequently as it can become packed into a hard lump. When changing the bedding of a very sick dog have another box beside you lined with a thick blanket and place him gently in this while you see to his bed.

On the day of your dog’s veterinarian appointment, get there about 10 or 15 minutes early to make sure that you have enough time to fill out all the paperwork that needs to be filled out before the examination. When you are done filling out the paperwork, look around the reception area. Record your observations and compare them to the results of your other appointments.  

Look around the office. Is it a comfortable place to wait? Is it clean? Does it have a pleasant smell? Is the receptionist friendly and polite? See if you can get a good look at the overall environment of the office. Are things running smoothly or are they chaotic? Although there are certain days when the office is hectic and the staff seem to be running back and forth, they should still maintain an organized and friendly working atmosphere.

Pay attention to the period of time it takes for you to see the vet. You should not have to wait an hour, or even 45 minutes, especially if you have an appointment. A normal wait time should be between 5 and 20 minutes. If you have been waiting for more than 20 minutes, you have the right to ask the receptionist how much longer it will take for you to be seen and if this is always the average waiting time for an appointment. Ask in a polite manner and you should get a polite response. Continue with your observation, noting down specific details in the office that can influence your decision. 

When it’s time for you to see the vet, pay attention to his demeanor and how he reacts and responds to your questions. Consider the following:

1. See if the vet takes the time to introduce herself to you and your dog, or if she seems to be in a hurry to finish the appointment.

2. Does she seem to be eager to answer all of your questions, or does she look irritated or displeased by them?

3. Does she give information about her practice?

4. Is she enthusiastic about her work, or does she look bored or uninterested?

5. Observe how she reacts toward your dog. Is she gentle and patient? Does she seem to be a real dog-lover and someone who could connect with your dog?

6. Observe how your dog reacts towards the vet. Does your dog seem comfortable around her?