Dog Talk: How To Understand What Your Dog Is “Saying”
Part 1

Your dog has the ability to tell you exactly how he feels – whether he is happy, sad, bored, excited, disgusted, puzzled, confident, uneasy or frightened.

The inconspicuous and almost continuous movements of his eyes, ears, body and tail are his emotional body language and his primary means of communication. Researchers are finding that, rather than being limited in their means of expression, animals are attuned to an extremely subtle and refined system of communication.

The wild dogs of Africa studied by Jane Goodall and wolves observed by Dr. Michael W. Fox, recognized authority on canine body language, communicated to each other a wide range of attitudes, including anger, dominance, submission, joy, interest, disgust, dismay, affection and fear – using only the slightest body movements.

Though domesticated dogs have lost some sensitivity to this language in their dealings with humans, they still use most of these instinctive, inherited forms of communication. With practice, a sensitive observer with a keen eye can learn to read his dog’s body language.

As he becomes more skilled at identifying subtle changes of mood in his pet, his communication and companionship with him will grow deeper and more pleasurable.

Veterinarians with long experience often read canine body language well, noticing the smallest nuances. Dr. Theodore Stanton, a veterinarian who has practiced now for more than forty years, has become an expert at it. He frequently acts as interpreter for his patients when their owners bring them in for treatment and ask him why their dog is doing certain peculiar things.

“Among Dogs, as among most animals, a hierarchy exists in every group,” says Dr. Stanton.

He goes on to say, “From the most dominant ‘top dog’ to the lowest ‘under dog,’ each dog works out with each other in the group which of them will be dominant and which will be submissive. Much of a dog’s body language is used in the context of establishing these dominant-submissive relationships with other dogs and also with people.”

A dog uses every part of his body in some way to express his feelings and intentions. The appendage he uses most conspicuously and expressively is his tail.

“You can tell everything by a dog’s tail,” explains Mr. Stanton, “He holds it up when he is alert and expecting something. If he has met a strange dog or heard an unusual sound, it quivers a little. He is saying, ‘I’m ready for danger; I’m ready for anything!”

The Doctor finishes with, “A tail held very high – almost vertically – or arched over his back says he feels aggressive and dominant, and intends to do something about it if necessary. The dog with his tail tucked tightly between his hind legs is saying, ‘I’m scared, and I’m getting out of here!’”

Dog Talk: How To Understand What Your Dog Is “Saying”
Part 2

When your dog is talking, do you listen? Are you paying attention?

Barking is not the topic here, but rather, the way our dogs communicate to us and the world around them with the use of their body language, specifically the tail.

There are lots of different wags. Plain, ordinary, enthusiastic wagging means “I’m a friendly fella!” A slow wag is the nervous laugh of a dog who is embarrassed about something. A tail held high and wagged widely, instead of only slightly, means he wants to play. If he wiggles up to you after you have disciplined him, wagging his tail between his hind legs, he is saying he wants to make up and is sorry.

Most of a dog’s nosing around is done for identification purposes. When he approaches another dog, the first thing he does is sniff him out to discover whether he is friend or foe. First he smells the rear; then he smells the face.

When your dog props his paws on your chest or shoulders, he is trying to get in position to smell your breath. He can tell whether it’s you for sure, and what you’ve been eating that he might get some of!

You can often tell immediately whether a dog cares for your company by noticing the position of his lips. When he draws the corners of his lips forward, he is feeling distinctly antisocial. He may become aggressive and could attack, especially if he has drawn his lips open to show his teeth. However, when he pulls back horizontally so that he appears to be grinning, he is expressing his friendliness or submissiveness.

When he feels very submissive, he will smile like a simpleton. He looks like he’s feeling silly and has lots of “waggle.” A few dogs are capable of the mimic grin, something they have learned from humans and display only to humans. They retract their lips to show their front teeth in a wide toothpaste smile.

A dog that uses those teeth to chew up your slippers may be telling you that he is unhappy. A chewing dog is a fretting dog. A pet that gets a lot of attention otherwise, but is left shut in the house alone all day will fret in this manner. When he is lonely and unhappy, and he wants something done – now – then he becomes like a hyperactive child. He’s liable to chew up everything in the house eventually.

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1. Common Signs of Dogs with Allergy Problems
2. Dealing With Foreign Bodies – Part 1
3. Dealing With Foreign Bodies – Part 2

Common Signs of Dogs with Allergy Problems

Dogs and puppies get allergies just like people. They get many of the same symptoms that humans get. Many signs included watery eyes, coughing and sneezing, excessive scratching and biting, vomiting, diarrhea, fatigue, and moodiness. When your dog or puppy is suffering from allergies, you may notice one or more of these symptoms. Learning what causes these allergies is the first step toward treating your dog and preventing further attacks.

Many allergies that dogs suffer from are caused by insects such as fleas and ticks, or by parasites. When you bring your dog home from a breeder or from a shelter or pet store, schedule an appointment with a veterinarian as soon as possible. Make sure your dog has all of its shots and has been dewormed. This will prevent parasites from causing an allergic reaction in your dog. While you may have to do this more than once during their lifetime, getting rid of the parasites will help your dog’s temperament and keep them healthy.

If you noticed small red bites on your dog or if the dog has been scratching the same area until bald spots appear, then they may have fleas, ticks, or mites. This allergic reaction is caused by insect saliva. If your dog has open wounds, you should wait until the wounds heal before spraying or bathing them with medicine that kills the insects and their eggs. Take your dog to the vet if this is the first occurrence. The veterinarian may be able to prescribe an ingestible pill that will protect them from future infestations. You may also want to keep your dog indoors during flea and tick season.

When your dog vomits more than once a week or has diarrhea for more than one or two days, they may have an allergy to dog food or to something they have eaten. Switching to another brand or feeding the dog softer food may solve this problem. You should take the dog to the vet anyway so that they can make sure the dog is healthy. Extreme diarrhea will lead to dehydration, so make sure you have plenty of water for your dog to drink.

If your dog’s mood changes suddenly or you notice that they are not as playful as they once were, then you should take the dog to a veterinarian. If the dog has eaten something it shouldn’t or if it is suffering from allergies, it will not want to play as much as it used to. Finding out the cause of their allergy may be difficult because, much like human beings, your dog may be allergic to more than one thing.

Research your dog’s breed to see if there are specific items it could be allergic to and see if they are present in your home. Monitor your dog to see how it behaves and what it is eating. Sometimes eating too much grass can cause an allergy attack. Once you find the causes of the allergy, take the steps necessary to reduce the dog’s exposure what is causing the allergy as much as possible.

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Dealing With Foreign Bodies

Part 2

4. Stomach

Large, smooth foreign bodies such as golf balls, stones, marbles and bones are the commonest foreign bodies to become arrested in the stomach. The dog may show various signs of distress, according to the amount of inflammation or obstruction.

In the stomach, these foreign bodies produce a mechanical gastritis, even actual ulceration, if they are present for some time. Vomiting is a constant symptom, varying in frequency with the degree of gastritis present. Inappetance, or disinclination to feed, is also seen, to a greater or lesser extent, and the temperature will be 102-103?5°F. Some dogs may have stones in their stomachs for quite a time, large dogs, such as Alsatians and Airedales, being the worst offenders. Surgery is the only method of removing the foreign bodies.

5. Intestines

In the first part of the intestines small stones and bits of bone become lodged. A foreign body in the intestines is serious. In this position a complete obstruction is caused and food cannot pass through the tube-like intestine. By pressure of the muscles of the gut, and owing to the small size of the gut cavity, a spasm of the muscle results, and very soon a congestion of local blood vessels ends in necrosis or gangrene of the intestinal wall.

There is always a local peritonitis present, and this, if rupture or puncture of the intestinal wall occurs, rapidly results in a generalised peritonitis. Surgical measures are required as soon as possible. Symptoms of such a case are: vomiting (within half to one hour of being fed), temperature is 102?5°F. or more, the back is arched, the dog has a tucked-up appearance, a tight skin, and signs of abdominal pain.

Whenever a foreign body is suspected NEVER give castor oil or any other purgative. Such dosing will generally ensure that your dog dies an agonising death within twenty-four hours.

Intestinal intussusception, a condition seen particularly in young dogs or puppies of the long-backed breeds (e.g., dachshunds), has symptoms similar to those of an intestinal foreign body. In this condition a portion of intestine passes into a lower part of the adjoining intestine. In other words, the animal tries to pass a bit of its own intestine. This is often predisposed to by an enteritis.

It is seen mainly in puppies or young dogs. The blood supply of the inverted part becomes obstructed, and the intestinal cavity is eliminated completely. Local peritonitis, vomiting and straining, together with abdominal discomfort and a temperature rise of one or more degrees, are signs of this condition, and prompt surgery is indicated. Speed is all the more essential because of the extreme youth of the patient.

6. Rectum

Small fragments of bone may become lodged in the rectum. These can often be felt by gently inserting a carefully greased finger. Restraint such as a muzzle tape may be required to perform this examination. They are also evidenced by the animal’s behaviour. Intense pain during the passing of a motion, or inability to perform this task; straining, or probably a little blood-stained faeces; all are symptoms.

The veterinary surgeon usually employs a general anaesthetic to ensure easy removal of the object; this not only frees the animal from pain but also stops the spasm of the anal sphincter, the very strong muscle surrounding the end of the rectum. Do not give a purgative, or an enema, in such cases. If you are certain of the cause of the trouble, and can feel the bone via rectum, a sedative may be given before the veterinary surgeon arrives, but if this is done he must be informed.

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Dealing With Foreign Bodies

Part 1

Objects which become lodged in various parts of an animal’s digestive tract are referred to collectively as foreign bodies. The subject is complex as the object may become arrested at any one of a number of sites. Not only will the symptoms vary but also the seriousness of the situation, therefore the subject will be discussed from beginning to end, dividing the various types of foreign body cases into geographical or anatomical areas.

1. Mouth.
2. Throat.
3. Gullet (oesophagus).
4. Stomach.
5. Intestines.
6. Rectum.

1. Mouth

The most common form of this mishap is a bit of bone or wood becoming firmly lodged across the roof of the mouth, between the back molars on each side of the upper jaw. Such an object may become tightly fixed. In most instances these can be successfully dislodged by opening the dog’s mouth and levering the wedged object out with a finger or the handle end of a spoon.

Care should be taken not to allow the dog to close his mouth until the object is well outside the mouth, otherwise he may swallow it. In some cases, however, the object becomes so firmly fixed that dental forceps may be required to dislodge it.

The signs of a foreign body in the mouth are usually obvious. The animal claws and paws frantically at his mouth, salivates profusely, and is, of course, unable to eat food. Whilst such cases are not really dangerous to the animal’s life, the sooner the offending object is removed, the better.

Needles are a different matter; they may break in the mouth, leaving the point firmly embedded in the palate or tongue. Anaesthesia and an X-ray examination are essential in most of these cases, firstly in order to facilitate the removal of the embedded portion, and secondly to find out whether the broken-off portion has been expelled, or swallowed to cause further trouble lower down.

2. Throat

Choking can happen when there is an obstruction in the airway. A foreign object can cause swelling and choking is the result. It is a common problem in pets to have something stuck in the throat. Like small children sometimes dogs will put things into their mouth out of curiosity to see if it is something they can eat.

Foreign objects need to be removed immediately. After removal check for any wounds that may result from the object. Be very careful putting your hand into your dog’s mouth as he may try to bite out of fear. DO NOT remove anything unless you can see it.

You can also remove objects by lifting and suspending a small dog (head down) or you can lift a large dog by the rear legs and tilt until the head is tilted down.

If that doesn’t work you can try a modified Heimlich maneuver can be attempted. Grasp the animal around the waist so that the rear is nearest to you, similar to a bear hug. Place a fist just behind the ribs. Compress the abdomen several times (usually 3 to 5 times) with quick pushes. Check the mouth to see if the foreign object has been removed.

Even if you are successful in removing a foreign object, veterinary examination is recommended.

3. Gullet (oesophagus)

It is usually medium-sized portions of bone that become lodged in the oesophagus, the channel which connects the mouth with the stomach. A simple way to identify this condition is to give the animal one or two small pieces of meat. If the foreign body is present in the oesophagus the dog will vomit the meat, almost at once.

The oesophagus is divided into two main regions—the head or front end situated in the neck region, and the stomach or lower end situated within the chest cavity or thorax. The latter position is a more serious site of obstruction as injury to the gullet in this region endangers many vital organs and nerves. In any case, or suspected case, of oesophageal obstruction X-ray or surgical measures are essential as rapidly as possible, in order to locate and remove the object.

Objects in the oesophagus are often spiky or pointed, or have sharp protrusions, and massage of the dog’s neck in an endeavour to move the obstruction should be avoided; it might result in laceration of the lining of the gullet.

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Dealing With Feeding and Fevers

“Feeding” is a misnomer in this connection as one of the most important points to remember when considering the diet of a sick dog is that an animal with a temperature of over 103°F. should not be fed with normal solid food. The less work the digestive organs have to do, the better, and the lack of appetite usually present is nature’s way of pointing out that food is not required as long as fever is present. In fact, excessive feeding can prolong the illness and increase its severity.

Fluids are absolutely essential, however, and if the dog will not take them voluntarily they must be given frequently like medicine, a tablespoonful or so at a time. Glucose and boiled water is excellent for this purpose, but not milk as this, although a liquid, is definitely a food. When the temperature has returned to normal a very light fluid diet can be begun, such as milk, beaten-up egg in milk, etc., but any rise in temperature should be a signal for a return to glucose and water. Nervous complications in the virus diseases such as hard-pad are far less likely if this method is adopted, and the animal will recover more quickly as he is not being called upon to deal with quantities of food when unable to profit from them. The fluid intake will help very considerably in elimination of waste products—always very important in feverish illnesses.

Separating Dog Fights

Occasionally one has the misfortune to have one’s dog attacked by (or even for it to attack!) another dog. Usually, a few well-chosen words, and a sharp tap on the rump with the lead or stick, will divert the aggressor’s attention. However, when animals really start fighting it is not a simple matter to stop them. Do not try to separate them with your hands if a stick or lead is available. A walking-stick is ideal; the handle placed through the collar of the attacker and then twisted so that the collar tightens on the throat will make him release his grip, and when separated he is still well under control. A lead, used as a noose, can also be used for this but is not so effective.
Douching with cold water is also a fairly effective method of temporarily separating fighting animals, although it is not always possible to have a supply of cold water to hand!

Giving An Enema

Giving an enema is not a task for the light hearted and should be thought out carefully. Use this as a last resort and if possible by a vet and not yourself unless you absolutely know how to do the procedure. This is one method of giving an enema.

An enema is not often needed but is sometimes used in constipation and in illnesses where it is inadvisable to give an aperient or purgative by mouth.

To give an enema, place the dog on a table—with large dogs, preferably in a yard—and have a jug containing the fluid at a higher level. Fill the syringe, making sure it is full as an injection of air can be very painful. Vaseline the bone point and insert into the rectum for its whole length (about seven inches). Give the injection slowly, then remove the syringe with a quick, smooth movement. Press the dog’s flanks together for a few moments to give the enema a chance to act.

After use, wash the enema syringe in warm, soapy water and rinse in a solution of Dettol and water. It should be hung in a cool place to dry.

An enema consists of an injection of fluid into the bowel, by means of a syringe. For small dogs a straight glass syringe can be used, but for general use the ordinary Higginson’s type of rubber apparatus is preferable. For simple constipation only a small injection is needed—for a toy, half a teaspoonful of glycerine mixed with two tablespoonfuls of warm water. For medium-sized dogs double the quantity, and for collie size four times. Soapy water (made from pure soap flakes or Castile soap) can be used instead of glycerine. In the case of a real obstruction —that is, not simple constipation—double the quantity can be given and the enema repeated three or four times.

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Aging is something that happens to every living thing. This includes your beloved four-legged friends, your dogs. For these beloved friends there are natural ways to improve your pet’s life. Give it a better quality of life.

Your Dog’s Life Span

Depending on the size of your dog the average life span is about 12.8 years.. Large dogs like Great Danes have a life span of about 9 years, whereas a small dog like Jack Russels can live as long as 12-13 years or longer if their health is good. If they are large dog they reach their senior years about 5 years of age, whereas a small dog is about
8 years of age.

For Starters

• Antioxidants – these protect the body against the adverse effects of substances that can increase aging. Some of these antioxidants are vitamins A, C and E also selenium and can be found in many herbs and vegetables. Ask your local vet which ones are best for your dogs.

• Exercise – this is always the best remedy you can do for your dog. It’s the best ‘remedy’ for staying trim and in shape, because it keeps the heart strong, the joints limber and the lungs healthy. The older dog should walk everyday for at least 20 minutes.

• Good Quality Food – good quality food should have organic ingredients like mostly meat, no artificial coloring or flavors. Preservatives in foods can be harmful. Homemade is best, there are lots of recipes out there. Be aware that your dog is a senior and calorie intake should be low. Omega-3 fatty acids are found in fish oils, flax-seed oil and other sources. They are amazing for the body especially in a senior canine.

• Excessive Vaccines, Antibiotics and Steroids – avoid these as much as possible. Older dogs bodies don’t detoxify drugs very well. Natural remedies are best. Check with your holistic vet if you are unsure of what to do.

Dogs Health Problems

Arthritis:
This is something that is common in most animals. If your dog has arthritis it is very likely that they will not be as active as before. It is most likely that they are sore and may resent being touched.

There are natural remedies/supplements that you can use. Natural Supplements include glucosemine, chondroitin and MSM. Omega-3, vitamin C and other supplements may also be helpful. Acupuncture and Chiropractic are great for easing pain and helping to restore normal function, One treatment may help but as a dog ages visits can be more frequent. Herbal Remedies They can be of great help and are often less expensive than synthetic drugs. Willow bark, meadowsweet and St. John’s Wart are great for treating pain caused by arthritis. You can also use cayenne, wild yam, devil’s claw and yucca.

Cataracts:
Like people, dogs especially older dogs, can also get cataracts, You can try eyebright, it may help prevent cataracts from progressing. It can be given like eye drops or can be taken orally.

The Dreaded Weight Problem

Like with people, over eating and eating the wrong foods can lead to obesity. Like with people obesity can lead to other problems with their health. Calorie intake should be at least 20% lower in older dogs. The best thing you can do for them is give them a proper diet and plenty of exercise.

Avoiding Dogs Depression

Good nutrition with adequate exercise is most important. Dogs, like people, need to be able to stimulate their minds. Gingko can help a lot but make sure you check with your holistic vet on ANY herbals you use to help your best bud.

The Crotchety Old Dog

Well, what can I say. We all know an old guy that is just like that. Dogs can get that way too. OK females can get that way also. We, the female are not immune as much as we hate to admit it. Flower Essence (Bach Flower) can help with the emotions, clematis may restore alertness and Mustard can restore serenity.

Deteriorating Senses

Like anything to do with aging, the senses start to go. Hearing, sight, smell and a sense of direction all get diminished as they age just like us. Gingko can help increase
the blood flow to the brain and enhance the senses. To help improve the general quality of life stimulating herbs like ginger, cayenne and ginseng might help.

Aging is an unavoidable event in all mammals. Fortunately for our dogs, our best buds, many natural remedies are available out there, Again I will say and I can’t say this enough when choosing to use natural herbs and remedies ALWAYS, ALWAYS const consult with your Holistic Vet and/or Veterinary Practitioner.

Life is Great and we want our dogs, our best buddies, to be around for as long as possible.

©2010 Teri Champigny. All Rights Reserved

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3. Things to Consider When Choosing a Career in Dog Training

Some people choose a career in dog training simply because it is a popular choice however there are those who are really passionate about canines that their life’s direction has led them towards loving dogs even more.

Do you fall in the category of people who pursue career in dog training just because someone said you are great with dogs and should look into a career with working with dogs. Or have fallen so in love with dogs that you are left with no option but to fall even deeper and must work with them?

Back to basic principles…

Dog training is more than a love for dogs; it also requires knowledge and skills in handling and disciplining them and knowing the basics of their behaviors. Dog trainers usually have long history of experience with dogs and interaction with many dog owners and handlers and their pets.

What is your “dog division”?

There are two types of careers in the dog world- the pet service training and the dog training. Both have relatively high demands in the market but there are a lot more opportunities in pet dog training than service training.

The pet dog training usually involve dogs that function merely as pets and as companions for outdoor activities therefore, the usual training involved are obedience training, agility training, potty training and training to eliminate unwanted behaviors like barking and biting.

Service training, on the other hand, involves specified training on services required by people with disabilities and those undergoing therapy. Another division of service dogs are involved in chasing criminals, drug and bomb sniffing, search and rescue dogs and hunting dogs.

These are highly intensive trainings and require the handler to get sufficient preparation to lead the dog in employing its specialized functions.

Understanding of canine psychology

What do you really know about dogs – their thinking, their behaviors and their reaction to stimulus? Training adheres to conditioning the thinking of the dog to make specific responses. You should also know well the fundamentals of associative conditioning.

What about dog training education?

A dog training career requires that you have basic skills in dog training and handling. There are no degrees in dog training yet for there are no colleges and universities offering such. However, there are dog “academies” or “schools” that could provide basic training. However, the best dog trainers are often self taught and have natural inclination to dog handling.

Some have apprenticed with excellent dog trainers while others simply have the knack in training dogs. There are also a number of dog training organizations that could supplement latest information on dog training.

Comparison of working attitude with people and dogs

Dog training involves training the handlers of the dogs as well. Therefore if you are pursuing a career in this field, it is very important that you have good people skills and that you can tolerate all types of people.

There are impatient owners who expect fast learning from their dogs without taking advices openly while there are those who relatively open to suggestions. You need to cater both types of dog handlers and everyone in between. In short, career in dog training is not only limited to dog training but also an experience of people training as well.

Miscellaneous

Dog training is not limited to “training” alone; there are also certain aspects that you should be knowledgeable of like maintenance of proper dog hygiene, nutrition and grooming.

You should also have good knowledge on dog competitions, accessories and training aids. You should also be able to distinguish different dog breeds and their fundamental differences.

You don’t have to be a guru in dog training to be an excellent trainer; you only have to develop certain skills necessary in handling dogs and their trainers and to have sufficient knowledge on theories and the capacity to put them into practical application.

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Golden Retriever

For beginners, breeding Golden Retrievers is nearly impossible. Breeding can be very complicated, although it can be easy as well. You should never attempt to breed unless you know a lot about the requirements that are needed for the breed you are intending to breed. It is simply unfair to the breed if you have a litter of puppies that simply aren’t what the breed standards list for the Golden Retriever. People who look to buy Golden Retrievers only want top quality, which is why you shouldn’t attempt to breed just have a puppies or make a few bucks.

Breeding Golden Retrievers is a very serious hobby and not to be taken lightly. One should be aware of what they are letting themselves in for. There is a certain amount of cost and care involved with breeding, especially if breeders are going for a certain quality. There is also a lot of responsibility involved as well, which can take quite a bit of time to say the least.

Motivation for breeding

When looking to breed, quality breeders will have a lot of choices in front of them. To get the highest quality possible from the litter, the breeder will need to determine the traits of both dogs, temperaments, and how well they seem to react to one another. The breeder will also need to determine in either of the dogs have any type of health problems, to prevent any diseases or ailments from being passed on to the litter.

Sometimes, when breeding a young Golden Retriever, the mother of the litter might not want to feed her young, in which case the breeder might have to coax her into feeding her puppies or if the mother won’t feed the puppies at all then breeder will need to do it for her. This can be the most time consuming aspect of breeding, as the breeder will have to feed the young and make sure that they turn out as healthy as possible.

Aside from that, breeders also face quite a bit of costs as well. The prices for daily care, food, and vet bills can be very steep to say the least. When you crunch the numbers, you’ll quickly realize that breeders don’t make much money at all when they sale. Most breeders do it for the love of the breed. Quality breeders on the other hand aren’t concerned with money at all, as they are more concerned about the quality of their litters. Quality is better than quantity, as even the best breeders out there have problems selling puppies from time to time.

Although breeding is fun for hobby breeders, it is something you really shouldn’t be doing if you unless you are willing to take on the responsibility and doing the research to do it right. Although your Golden may get pregnant by a dog of a different breed without you knowing it, you should do your best to avoid it at all costs if you can. A pure bred Golden Retriever should be bred only with dogs of her breed, to help preserve the breed and keep their bloodline going. If you have thought about breeding in the past – you should really study long and hard before you actually make a reality of it.

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Yorkshire Terrier
A Hypoallergenic Dog

Even though many breeds are no longer used just for sporting or hunting, these dogs have become popular favorites among those who need a hypoallergenic dog that has an easy temperament. Sporting dogs are considered intelligent, playful, and obey their owners when given commands. Hypoallergenic sporting dogs include Poodles, Australian Terriers, and Kerry Blue Terriers. Each of these dogs has been used to hunt small and large game and also to hunt for rodents and other pesky animals that carried disease. Now these animals are kept in the home as pets. While still playful and easy going, these dogs are now treated more like friends that as sporting partners.

Each of these breeds has a short coat that is more like human hair because it is soft and thin. Unlike other breeds, these dogs do not shed as often and when they do, it is usually not noticeable. People who want to own a medium sized dog will appreciate any of the breeds mentioned above. Grooming is an essential part of their care as is brushing their coats once or twice a week to prevent matting.

The Poodle comes in a few different varieties that are all hypoallergenic. Poodles have been used a sporting dogs, show dogs, and lap dogs for those who wanted a breed that would sit still on command. The Poodle is a friendly dog that does not make a lot of noise. They are very active and enjoy getting their exercise. People who want are thinking about buying a Poodle should conduct more research to see if this is the dog they truly want. Even though the Poodle can live for many years, they may suffer some health problems as they age.

The Australian Terrier was once used to catch mice and rats, but today it is kept at home because of its pleasant disposition and its long hair that does not shed. You can choose to cut the hair closer to the body if you choose. For those looking for a smaller dog, the Australian Terrier is a good choice. These dogs are considered companion dogs, meaning that they enjoy the company of people.

The Kerry Blue Terrier is a relative of the Australian Terrier, but is much larger and has a more pronounced head and chest. Their head is almost square shaped. Their cost is soft and curly. It will not shed and needs to be groomed often to prevent matting. While the dogs are actually gray or black in color, a blue sheen can be found on their coat. This is where they got their name.

Kerry Blue Terriers need daily exercise that can range from long walks to running in the park with other dogs. If you have a backyard, you can let the dog run around and it will tire itself out. People who live in larger homes should consider buying a hypoallergenic dog like this one.

Even though these dogs are no longer used primarily as sporting dogs, this does not mean the dogs prefer to sit around all day long. Exercise is very important for dogs like these because they have been used for generations for sporting parties and long hunts in the woods.

[tags]hypoallergenic sporting dogs, hypoallergenic dogs, hypoallergenic, dogs, breeds, types of breeds, breed types[?tags]

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Eclampsia is a condition seen in the bitch and it generally occurs about the time of whelping, or it may occur during the suckling period. This condition is caused by a lowering of the blood calcium which in turn is due to the heavy demands made by various detoxication processes which go on about the time of parturition, and also to the heavy draw on the bitch’s reserves by having to produce large amounts of milk. The bitch with a first litter is not commonly affected, it being a condition more usual with the mature mother. Eclampsia is commonest in the bitch with the large litter, especially when she has “done the puppies well”.

The first symptom is an alteration in temperament. The bitch appears distressed and fussed for apparently no reason. Some bitches become very excited and may even have hysteria. They then become lethargic, have a sub-normal temperature, may show epileptiform convulsions and, in very advanced cases, become cold, comatose and moribund. Any panting, shivering, or unusual distress in an in-milk or lactating bitch should be regarded as possible eclampsia.

The only specific treatment for this deficiency condition is the replacement of the lacking blood calcium. This can be done adequately only by the administration of calcium by injection, and if the condition is suspected your veterinary surgeon should be informed immediately. There is a degree of urgency in these cases as some bitches rapidly become comatose.

There are several steps which, if taken promptly, will greatly retard the onset of the advanced symptoms of the condition. Firstly, remove the puppies, or allow them to remain in the bitch’s presence but do not allow them to feed from her. This will prevent any further immediate drain on her calcium reserves. If the bitch has symptoms of hysteria or over-excitability give a small dose of sedative (2—5 gr. pot. bromide). In any case, keep her absolutely still and quiet and as warm as possible. If available, one or two 5 gr. calcium lactate tablets crushed in a little milk may be given by mouth. These should be continued daily after she has received her calcium injection and until the puppies have been weaned. An adequate supply of Vitamin D should also be given during convalescence.

Prevention of Eclampsia

As this condition is due to a deficiency of calcium in the bloodstream of the nursing bitch much can be done to make its onset less likely by the inclusion of calcium, phosphorous, and so on, in the diet. Bitches should be given both milk and bone meal (this is specially prepared for animal feeding and is not the kind sold for gardens) from the sixth week of pregnancy until the puppies are weaned. Milk is a rich natural source of calcium, and bone meal supplies the essential minerals in an easily assimilated form. A rich source of Vitamin D should always be given as this aids the utilisation of calcium and phosphorus—halibut oil or Vivomin (Crookes) are good examples.

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