To teach your dog tricks even easy ones you need to have some small reward treats, be in a quiet suitable place and keep the training sessions to 10 - 15 minutes or your dog will start to get board. Remember, when he gets something right give lots of praise and a reward treat. Just be careful not to get him over excited or he will loose concentration.

Getting your dog to give you his paw. First get your dog to sit, then as you say the word ‘paw’ take your dogs paw in your hand, give the dog a treat, repeat this. After a few times do not take his paw so quickly, say the word, count to one then take it, you should notice he is bringing his paw up as you say the word. If he does not, go back to saying it at the same time, do it a few more times then slow your response again. After 2 or 3 sessions most dogs pick this one up quite happily.

The high five, like a lot of tricks the high five is a progression of an earlier trick, in this cast the paw trick. Hold a treat in your fingers and raise your hand slightly higher than you would for the paw trick. You dog will think you want to do the paw trick and will reach for the treat with his paw as we taught him earlier, as he reaches up you say “high five” and give him the treat. Once your dog has mastered the paw trick this one should be very easy to learn and with just a few sessions he will be doing it on hand signal rather than voice control.

Getting your dog to jump through a hoop. Before you start this one I would just like to ask you to be a little sensible and not hold the hoop too high as you do not want your dog to heart himself while doing the trick. Sit your dog on one side of a hoola hoop. Get the dogs attention on your hand on the other side of the hoop. Take a treat in your hand and give the dog the command “Hoopla” to release him from the sit. At first he may attempt to go around or under the hoop, if this happens start again. Your dog wants the treat and will soon learn that going around or under does not get it so he will soon start going through it. When he does say hoopla and give him the treat. He will soon be jumping through the hoop on the command of hoopla.

When starting with a medium sized dog, start with the hoop at about 6 inches from the ground and slowly raised it to waist height. If you have a smaller dog you might want to start with the hoop touching the ground so the dog just goes through the hoop and then slowly raise it as he gets used to the trick.

Most people do not know how to treat their pets when their pets needs them most. Surprisingly, a lot of people do not even have the education or knowledge on how to care for their pets.

A pet’s life might be endangered if the owner does not have knowledge of First Aid. For example: If pets suffers from the aches and pains of old age and arthritis or it swallows a household poison like chocolate, do the owners know how to deal with it? Most of the time the answer is “NO” as they are cluless on what to do next. So the next best action that a owner can do is to educate themselves better on how to care for their pets. If you have the knowledge, you will be able to - Instantly decide on a course of action for your ailing pet - so you can ease the pain and start treatment immediately:

• You can find natural and effective remedies regardless of your financial situation so your pet doesn’t have to go without treatment.

• Quickly diagnose your sick or injured pet - so you can instantly know if you can administer care yourself or if you should seed medical help immediately.

• Immediately begin regimens that have been proven to halt and or prevent diseases such as cancer and diabetes - so your pet can live a long and healthy life with you.

If the owner has very little knowledge and they are too dependent on the veterenarian, then the vet is the owner’s only option. A pet will suffer because sometimes the owners:

• Delay bringing their pet in for treatment because the pet becomes ill after hours

• Rely exclusively on harsh drug treatments because they (and their vets) are unaware of effective, gentle, natural ways to treat their pet.

• Discontinue treatment for chronic illnesses because it’s complicated or expensive

• Aren’t able to afford an office visit and or follow up treatment.

Most pet owners have no idea how to perform CPR, or even begin to give basic medical care to their pet. But you should know these things, because in some emergencies, you can’t always get to a vet in time. That is why it is so important for everybody who loves and cares for a pets to have the appropriate information. It might even saves your pet’s life one day.

So the question now is where to get the education and correct information? Well, you can get books focusing on dogs, cats, behavior problems, chronic illness, and even trauma. Then, you can find books on herbal remedies - presuming you already know which are safe for dogs and which for cats and which could cause complications (including death). Add to your list, books on dental health, acupressure, and homeopathy.

You need to mold your dog into the family member you want him to be – where obedience and instant response will allow a relationship for you and your pet that is free from stress and frustration.

This article will deal only with training dogs between six months of age and older. There is a difference in training techniques when teaching a dog below the age of six months, and that age group will require methods specifically intended for puppies.

Teaching a six-month-old dog with kindergarten methods would be an insult to his intelligence, much like a college student would be offended if his instructor talked to him using child-like teaching techniques. Similarly, a six-year-old child would achieve nothing sitting in a classroom listening to a professor explaining the theory of relativity.

Setting Positive Attitudes While Training Your Dog

If your dog’s training periods each day consist of nothing but commands, I can assure you that a negative attitude will develop from your pet. His daily routine is now being changed to include training sessions. It is up to you, his owner, to make these training periods something that your dog will enthusiastically look forward to.

You can achieve this simply by communicating verbally with the dog during training periods. Here lies another key that will spell the difference between mediocre and excellent performance from your dog. By communicating verbally doesn’t mean the usual “Heel” and “Sit” commands. Literally talk to your dog. Say something like “Good Boy….. You’re doing a great job… Come on boy, you can do it…etc.”

Although your dog has no idea what you are saying, two things are actually taking place while you’re talking to him. First, your enthusiastic and warm tone of voice reflects your positive attitude and motivates your dog into doing a great job in order to please you.

Second, this motivation then triggers a positive attitude in your dog. Commands, on the other hand, should be given in a completely different tone of voice. They should, in fact, sound like commands, and not requests. They are then followed by enthusiastic and loving praise as soon as the dog follows the command or when shown what his correct response should have been.

Keep in mind that the most important key to the success of your dog’s training is communication. Talk to him, reflect your positive attitude in the tone of your voice and your dog will reflect his positive attitude in the excited way he welcomes each day’s training session.

Any treatment, simple or complicated, must be carried out with the unhurried speed which characterises the good nurse. To ensure this, have everything ready beforehand. For example, for cleaning the animal you will need cotton wool, lint (for washing), a basin with Dettol and warm water at the correct temperature, a receiver for soiled material, talcum powder, zinc ointment, scissors (for long-haired dogs) and a thick towel to arrange under the hindquarters to keep the bed dry. These articles should be placed on a tray, the home equivalent of the hospital dressing trolley! The window should be shut if any process is likely to chill the patient, and a covered hot water-bottle afterwards is very comforting in cold weather.

Handle the dog gently but firmly, supporting him if necessary for feeding and drinking, and be especially gentle in your care of the paralysed patient. Remember that the patient unable to protect himself is easily bruised and injured just in the same way as a dog under anaesthesia. These animals are particularly subject to bed-sores and must be turned every two hours or so, and their beds kept smooth and soft.

It is important in nursing a sick dog to do what is necessary and no more. In other words, leave the animal to sleep between food and treatment; undisturbed quiet is an essential part of recovery. Of course this does not mean neglect, such as leaving a dog for hours and hours in a wet bed with a cold bottle and a raging thirst. But there is always a great temptation to be over-attentive to the patient, especially if dearly loved, and self-control must be exercised by the nurse. Try to keep calm and cheerful, even if feeling the reverse, as dogs are very sensitive to the tone of voice.

Diet, taking temperatures, post-operative care, and so on, will be found under specific headings.

The pulse is best felt in the femoral artery which crosses the thigh. The normal rate is between seventy and ninety beats per minute, smaller dogs having a faster rate than the bigger breeds.

After feeding, the mouth should be swabbed out with a weak solution of permanganate of potash and water, and this can be repeated every two or three hours during the day if the dog is feverish and thirsty.

Sponging the face and head is very refreshing in hot weather and helps to reduce a high temperature. Try to put yourself in the dog’s place and foresee and prevent discomfort. To take a tiny example—bright sun shining into the dog’s eyes. Understanding, imagination and common sense are all qualities valuable in the canine nurse. Quiet is essential with nerve cases and, indeed, in any serious illness; if you have ever been ill yourself you will remember how irritating you found the banging door, the clattering footsteps and the loud voice.

These early attempts at carrying will teach your dog, with a minimum of effort, the basic steps of the RETRIEVE exercise, one of the most difficult in advanced training.

If your dog is a natural retriever, take advantage! Make a game of retrieving objects, both in the house and out-of-doors. Concentrate on getting your dog excited so she will chase things, then just before she reaches the object, give the retrieve command ONCE. While she is picking up the object, say “Good Girl!” and say it as though you meant it. Praise will encourage a dog to take things from the floor or the ground when she might otherwise refuse.

If your dog starts for an object and comes back without it, or if she doesn’t start at all, run to the object, pick it up, scuff it between her paws in a teasing manner, drag it along the floor, or kick it around; then place it in her mouth (unless she reaches for it herself), and turn and run. If she follows, clap your hands, squeal with delight, but DON’T REACH FOR WHAT SHE IS HOLDING. Let her strut around proudly, then, after a few moments, call her, quietly take the object away, and throw it again. If she won’t give you the article when you say “Out!” gently loosen it from her mouth and after she lets go, tell her “Good Girl!” and pat her.

Make your dog understand that after every retrieve she must bring the article back to you. For best results, kneel when you call her and give praise in a happy, high-pitched tone. If she starts running around with the article, change to a demanding “Come!” (coax her to come close by tapping the floor or the ground). When she comes, pat her before you take the article so she will learn to expect a pleasant reward for delivering things.

Train your dog to retrieve playfully while on leash. This will prepare her for leash corrections, which later may be necessary. While you hold the handle of the leash, make a game of throwing objects, letting the dog run after them. When she picks them up, don’t forget the praise! If she sniffs the object, then walks away, kick it around like you would a football. Kick it first away from her, then toward her paws. Talk to her at the same time in a cajoling tone of voice to give encouragement. If she still won’t pick it up, hand it to her, then try again.

RETRIEVE IN PLAY lessons should be short so your dog won’t get tired of the game. You fail in your objective if the dog gets bored and refuses to pick up thrown articles in play. Another thing—don’t always make your dog sit after she picks up the article. The steadying-down process required for Obedience Trials can be applied AFTER the dog has learned to retrieve on command. For the play training, keep things exciting.

When practicing RETRIEVE IN PLAY, use an assortment of articles for your games, and among them include the dumbbell. The retrieve exercise should not be associated with any one object. It is also important that you give the retrieve command just before your dog reaches for the article and that you praise enthusiastically while she is picking it up. Afterward, quietly but firmly insist that she bring the article to you.

Things To Remember When Teaching The RETRIEVE IN PLAY:

1. Play games every chance you have.

2. Use an assortment of articles, and include the dumbbell.

3. Practice RETRIEVE IN PLAY, both on and off leash.

4. Keep the retrieve command a happy one.

5. Give the command ONCE.

6. Give praise while your dog is taking the article from the floor or the ground.

7. Allow your dog to chase articles without waiting for them to stop rolling.

8. Don’t insist that the dog sit every time she returns. When you take the object from your dog, never pull on it.

9. As the dog progresses, delay the praise until she is on her way back WITH the article.

10. Train often, but keep the lessons short.

Take your position in front of a low Solid Hurdle with your dog at your left side. Hold the leash in both hands, as when teaching the heeling exercises. As you step toward the jump, command “Robin, Hup!” and snap the leash over the hurdle ahead of the dog. Slacken the leash while the dog is jumping, so you won’t throw her off balance when she lands. Command “Come!” and jerk the leash toward you, with praise, to make her jump back. Run backward at the same time, gathering up the leash, so the dog will have room to sit squarely in front. If she isn’t sitting straight, correct her, then stand erect.

Wait a moment, then lean over and pat her. Patting your dog at this point accustoms her to the body movement she will experience when you lean over to take the dumbbell, which you will do in the regular RETRIEVE OVER HURDLE exercise. Stand up a second time, then command the “finish.”
When your dog will jump the hurdle both going and coming, and will sit squarely in front on the return, without corrections, do the exercise while the dog holds the dumbbell. Remember to straighten all crooked sits; and after you take the dumbbell, give it back once or twice to keep the dog from anticipating the finish.

Next comes the period of chasing the dumbbell over the hurdle in play—that is, if your dog can be baited with play. Keep the dog on leash. Get her excited. In a teasing way, toss the dumbbell over a low hurdle and see if she will go for it. Give one command, and, while she is picking up the dumbbell, give lots of praise. Encourage her to jump back, and use the command “Sit! Stay!” to help her keep the dumbbell in her mouth. After she is sitting straight, pat her, take the dumbbell, and complete the exercise.

After your dog plays this game for awhile, tell her “Stay!” and throw the dumbbell. Wait this time for it to stop rolling, then see if she will start when you give the command. Play combined with obedience in this exercise gets excellent results when you have a dog with a frisky nature. Unfortunately, too many dogs have never learned how to play. For them it is straight obedience.

The next step in teaching RETRIEVE OVER HURDLE is to see that the dog not only waits for you to tell her to get the dumbbell, but also that she starts on the first command. Keep the jump low, and have the dog on leash. Assume your position close to the hurdle so you won’t have to move your feet when you make a correction. Tell your dog “Stay!” and place the dumbbell on the opposite side of the jump, close enough that you can reach it by leaning over the hurdle. Hold the leash in both hands, and, without moving your arms, say a quiet “Take it!” “Good Girl!” If she starts, fine! That is what you want. If she remains sitting, correct as you did in the retrieve on flat exercise. Jerk the leash ONCE toward the jump while you are saying “Good Girl!” and after the dog jumps, lean over the hurdle, point to the dumbbell, and encourage her to pick it up.

Dogs frequently leap the hurdle when given the retrieve command, but will start back without the dumbbell. In this case, block the dog so she can’t return.

When your dog will retrieve successfully over a low hurdle on leash, try it without. If she jumps and picks up the dumbbell, rush forward, pat the top board of the hurdle to encourage her to jump back, then back up quickly, giving her room to land. Straighten all crooked sits, take the dumbbell, wait to see if she anticipates the finish, then let her go to heel position on command.

These can be exceedingly unpopular with canine patients but are nevertheless prescribed quite frequently for catarrhal infections, such as are found in distemper.

A narrow vessel (for example, a jug or stone jar) is well warmed in the oven, rinsed out with boiling water and refilled with boiling water plus the medicament chosen. This is usually Friar’s Balsam or eucalyptus. Friar’s Balsam may stain the vessel so eucalyptus (one teaspoonful to the pint) is preferable. Hold the dog’s head over the steam so that he inhales it. The animal must be held firmly throughout (usually for periods of 3-5 minutes, two, three or four times a day) in case he scalds himself.

Another excellent method of treatment by inhalation is the bronchitis kettle, familiar to most mothers.

This resembles an ordinary kettle but the spout is about two feet long. The kettle should be kept boiling on a small stove or spirit-lamp and the spout directed to the dog’s bed. A tea-chest placed on its side with wire over the front so that the dog cannot get out makes a splendid “steam tent” for a small patient. Travelling boxes can be adapted for this purpose. The kettle should be placed near the box with the spout directed at the opening, and a rug can be thrown over part of the front in order to concentrate the vapour. One or two teaspoonfuls of Friar’s Balsam can be added to the water in the kettle. This treatment should be carried out for about 10 minutes at a time, and repeated 2 or 3 times daily.

Nasal drops are sometimes prescribed. Most of these act by contracting the blood vessels in the lining of the nose, thereby reducing the inflammation and congestion. The dog’s head should be tilted well back and a medicine dropper, procurable from any chemist, is often preferable to the one supplied with the drops, which is sometimes rather large for easy insertion into a dog’s small nostrils.

Diets For Invailid Dogs

A diet for a sick or convalescent dog should be light, palatable and nourishing. Broadly speaking, there is no necessity to feed dogs at night as uninterrupted sleep will be of far more benefit.

It would obviously be a mistake, however, for the stomach to be overloaded with one or two large meals with which the digestive organs are unable to deal, so several small meals should be given. Milk, although very nourishing and a great stand-by, is not always suitable by itself and may have to be modified with Benger’s. Sometimes milk food made from one of the powdered full-cream infant foods is relished when ordinary milk fails to appeal. Baked custards (made with eggs) are usually much appreciated. Unless contraindicated, glucose can be added to all milky dishes. As it requires no digestion before assimilation it is a very valuable food. Far ex, milk puddings, crushed cornflakes and milk and Brand’s Essence are all useful items in invalid diet. Brand’s Essence is of particular value in cases of weakness, debility and prostration.

When diarrhoea is present give white fish boiled in milk, raw chopped meat in very small quantities and boiled rabbit can be given in convalescence. Eggs are more easily digested when given beaten up with milk, lightly boiled, or in custards. Barley water is best in kidney cases. Some of the lighter breakfast foods—cornflakes, rice crisps, and so on— bridge the gap between very light invalid food and more solid diet. The change from one to the other should always be gradual, particularly where there has been diarrhoea and vomiting.

Sometimes strong black coffee or brandy mixed with milk is advised when prostration or collapse is present. Do not be tempted to give too much at one time— a very sick dog should have only a few teaspoonfuls every two or three hours. Keep all spoons and dishes very clean and never leave food in the sick-room.

Avoid rich, indigestible foods such as herrings, sardines, and whale meat. Obviously dog biscuit should not be given. Rusks or lightly baked brown bread make a good substitute as convalescence progresses.

Dietary supplements containing vitamins are particularly important to the convalescent animal. The most necessary vitamins at this time are A, B complex and D. A comprehensive supplement such as Vivomin (Crookes) is the best way of supplying these essential factors. Fresh raw or lightly cooked liver is a rich source of the vitamin B complex. If liver is used be sure that it is absolutely fresh, and if such a supply is unobtainable one of the very good liver extracts on the market may be used instead. Do not use dried liver or liver meal.

To own a dog is not only to care for it but to control it as well. If this truth were more widely recognised dogs would be less frequently subjected to criticism that should properly fall upon the owner. More important, accidents would be reduced, as it is usually the undisciplined dog which causes, or is involved in, accidents.

Control of a dog in an emergency is even more important than in the daily run of life. Control is essential; the ability to apply any first-aid measures rapidly depends upon it. Many dogs, especially when in pain or shocked, resent efforts to help them. It is therefore important to be able to apply, quickly, efficiently and firmly, methods of control as and when required. These measures are best carried out by the owner, as even the most frightened dog will usually heed a person he knows. Even the most disciplined dog will, if in pain, be inclined to snap, often unintentionally. Some control of the biting end can be obtained with a lead, tape, or bandage. Obviously any restraint should be carried out with minimum disturbance of.

Few dogs pass through life with at least one illness during which the owner must give nursing care, and very often the animal’s recovery or the reverse depends to a large extent on the quality of the attention he receives. Canine patients differ from humans in that they cannot be kept in bed unless they are too weak to get out, and their co-operation has to be obtained by persuasion rather than by request.

A human patient will submit to the unpleasantness of constant intramuscular injections of penicillin, for instance, because he knows it is for his own good, but a dog cannot be expected to reason in this way. As some treatments given to sick dogs (inhalations, for example) are not welcomed by the patient, the attendant may have a difficult time. On the whole, however, dogs— even very young ones—make good patients provided they have confidence in their nurse and less important, in the veterinary surgeon. If a dog trusts his attendant he submits with quite good grace and often astonishing resignation and stoicism to many unpleasant measures, and even shows gratitude in a touching fashion.

When an animal is sufficiently ill to require nursing he should be put in a separate room or kennel, even if the malady is not infectious. The general hubbub of the kitchen or living-room is not restful, and every sick animal needs plenty of sleep and peace. This is particularly the case with distemper and hard-pad. Some dogs spend most of their time sleeping during the early stages of the former and, in addition, the nervous system is often affected in both diseases and a noisy, restless environment may result in the dreaded distemper or hard-pad fits.

In hot summer weather the dog is probably better outdoors for part of the time provided he is not allowed to run about much (he could be kept in a small run) and is protected from strong sunlight. Ask your veterinary surgeon and be guided by what he says.

If the dog is not allowed out the floor of the room must be protected. If possible, carpets should be removed but if this is impracticable two thick layers of newspaper with a thin sprinkling of sawdust in between is usually sufficient.

Of course a kennel is much more practical, but it should be a large one of the shed type, in which there is room for a table, a good light, and ample space for handling. A cramped kennel in which it is impossible to stand upright is obviously not a suitable sick-room! House dogs will usually be nursed in a spare room, to which reference has already been made.

Whichever is used, good ventilation without a draught must be ensured. Stuffy sick-rooms are an abomination. In winter the temperature should be kept to about 60°F. A room thermometer is useful. Whatever form of heating is arranged, it must be absolutely safe. If it is impossible to arrange this, the dog can be kept perfectly warm with light rugs and hot water-bottles and, if necessary, he can wear a woolly coat. The hot water-bottle should be regularly refilled. If the dog is well enough to be out of his bed most of the time artificial heating will be necessary only in cold weather. Fresh air is essential and provided.

If the dog is warm, and in lung cases wears a pneumonia jacket, he will come to no harm. Cleanliness of both the patient and his surroundings is essential. The room itself should be kept spotless and any excreta removed immediately. The dog should be groomed daily if well enough, and even if he cannot be moved from his bed it is usually possible to brush him gently with a soft brush or massage his skin with your fingers. If the dog is very ill he must not be disturbed for anything but essentials, but in the ordinary way the average well-cared-for dog, especially in the long-coated breeds, will appreciate this gentle grooming, just as a human patient will feel better for the refreshing daily wash.

The bed should be sufficiently roomy for the dog to turn and stretch in comfort. For small dogs, a tea-chest on its side with a three - to four-inch board nailed.

Across the bottom of the opening will be found very useful. It keeps out draughts and the dog will feel cosy and private. The front can have a wired door if the patient is a restless puppy, running a high temperature, and determined to commit suicide by leaving his box and lying in an icy draught from the room door.

The bedding can be straw, pine-shavings or blankets. The latter should be used only for clean cases, and it is a useful idea to have the blankets covered by a small linen sheet or light flannelette cot blanket which can be easily washed and frequently renewed.

The tea-chest plan is useful when the dog is suffering from a nervous disease, as it is possible to arrange a sack or blanket to shade the front opening and keep the patient inside sleeping in the dark without having the whole room darkened.

Whatever bedding is used, it must be kept clean and often renewed. If straw is used, shake it up frequently as it can become packed into a hard lump. When changing the bedding of a very sick dog have another box beside you lined with a thick blanket and place him gently in this while you see to his bed.

Dogs that bark can be extremely irritating but the main thing is not to loose your cool, if you shout at him he will try to shout louder than you. Try and find out the cause of his barking. Is he barking because he is afraid? Is he happy? Is there someone out there? If you can’t find the reason for the barking then he is doing it because he doesn’t know it is wrong to bark all the time. This is where dog behavior training comes in. There are lots of products available to help dogs with constant barking, there are special collars which gives them the tiniest of electric shocks so they know that it isn’t good to bark.

A biting dog is maybe one of the more serious behavior problems, especially now that the laws are tightened and any dog that bites someone is more than likely to get put down. Teaching your dog not to bite is one of the most important teachings you can give him. This is where you have to be firm and stick to your guns. When playing with a young dog they will automatically nip and gnaw at your hand this is because when dogs play together they play with their mouths. When teaching your dog not to bite stroke him with one hand while offering something which is acceptable to be bitten with the other hand, something like a chew toy or a raw hide treat. Your dog will soon realize that hands aren’t there for biting. This process has to be done repeatedly for it to take effect.

Dog behavior training is simple enough for the experienced dog lover but when it comes to beginners all the help available is needed. Accept help from friends and family and maybe even enroll in a dog behavior training class, this will help you to meet other people, having the same problems with their dogs that you are with yours. You are not alone when it comes to having trouble with dog behavior problems. Every dog will get them, it’s just a matter of how you fix them.